Usage:
(18)Fuel Injection Nozzles
Whenever an engine performs in such a manner that a fuel injection valve is suspected of causing trouble, test all fuel injection valves by loosening the fuel injection line nut at the pump.
When a nut is loosened and the exhaust smoking is completely or partially eliminated and the irregularity in running is not affected, this identifies the probable location of a defective fuel injector.
Your authorized dealer has the proper tools for cleaning and testing fuel injection valves.
To Remove Injector:
- 1. Clean dirt from around fuel injector.
- 2. Remove the fuel injection line at the valve housing.
Immediately install plugs in the fuel line nuts to prevent dirt from entering the fuel injection line.
- 3. Remove the valve retainer nut, and nozzle assembly.
To Install:
- 1. Screw the valve body into the nozzle assembly.
- 2. Insert the nozzle assembly and valve body.
- 3. Install the retainer nut and tighten to 105 lb.ft. (142 N·m).
| NOTICE |
|---|
Do not overtighten. Use a torque wrench. Overtightening or undertightening can cause fuel nozzle and engine failures. |
- 4. Connect the fuel injection line and tighten.
(19)Air Compressor
- 1. Inspect the performance of the air compressor.
- 2. Rebuild or replace the air compressor if needed.
- 3. Thoroughly inspect all connections for tightness before placing the vehicle in use.
(20)Cooling System - Cleaning
 |
At operating temperature, the engine coolant is hot and under pressure. Steam can cause personal injury. Check the coolant level ONLY when the engine is stopped and the filler cap is cool enough to touch with your hand. Remove the filler cap slowly to relieve pressure. Cooling system conditioner contains alkali. Avoid contact with skin and eyes to prevent personal injury. |
 |
| NOTICE |
|---|
All water is corrosive at engine operating temperature. Use Caterpillar Cooling System Conditioner liquid, or equivalent. |
| NOTICE |
|---|
Never add coolant to an overheated engine; allow the engine to cool first. Do not use Caterpillar Cooling System Conditioner with Dowtherm 209 coolant. |
| NOTICE |
|---|
If the truck is to be used or stored in an area with below freezing temperatures, the cooling system must be protected to the lowest expected ambient temperature. |
- 1. Loosen the radiator cap slowly to release the pressure. Remove the radiator cap.
- 2. Remove the cooling system drain plug, and allow the coolant to drain.
|
Use all cleaning solutions with care. |
|
Most commercial cooling system cleaners may be used. The best cleaner is chelate-type alkaline cleaners.
- 3. Install the drain plug. Fill the system with cleaning solution. 1
- 4. Start and run engine for 1/2 hour. Stop the engine and drain cleaning solution.
- 5. Flush the system with clean water until the draining water is clean. Do not run the engine while flushing.
- 6. Install the drain plugs. Fill the system with neutralizing solution. 2
- 7. Start and run the engine for 10 minutes. Stop the engine and drain neutralizing solution.
- 8. Flush the system with clean water, until the draining water is clean. Do not run the engine while flushing.
- 9. Install the drain plug.
- 10. Add the correct amount of Caterpillar Cooling System Conditioner, or equivalent, so that the cooling system will have a 3% concentration. Add 1 pint (.5 liter) for each 4 gal. (15 liter) of coolant.
- 11. To help avoid air locks, add coolant slowly, at 5 U.S. gallons (20 liters) per minute or less.
- 12. Add antifreeze solution. See REFILL CAPACITIES.
- 13. Start and run the engine with the radiator cap removed. Allow coolant to warm and level to stabilize.
- 14. Add coolant, if necessary, to bring the coolant level to the bottom of the fill pipe.
- 15. Observe condition of the radiator cap gasket. Replace if it is damaged.
(1)2 lb. Sodium Bisulfate (NaHSO4) per 10 U.S. gallons (1 kilogram per 10 liters) water.
(2)1/2 lb. Sodium Carbonate Crystals (Na2CO3·10H2O) per 10 U.S. gallons (250 grams per 40 liters) water.
(21)Batteries
- 1. Loosen and remove cable clamps from all battery terminals.
- 2. Clean all cable clamps.
- 3. Clean all battery terminals.
- 4. Install the cable clamps on the battery terminals. Make sure they are secure.
- 5. Apply a light coat of grease on the battery connections.
(22)Starting Aids - Checking Glow Plugs
- 1. Disconnect the wire lead from the glow plug terminal on the HEAT-START switch.
- 2. Install an ammeter with a capacity of over 75 amps, in a series, between the disconnected lead and the terminal on the HEAT-START switch.
- 3. Turn HEAT-START switch to HEAT.
- 4. Observe the ammeter. Each 12 volt glow plug draws approximately 12.5 amperes and each 24 volt glow plug draws approximately 6.5 amperes. The ampere draw of one glow plug multiplied by 6 will be the total ampere draw of the glow plugs in the engine. A low reading indicates one or more defective glow plugs.
- 5. If a defective glow plug is indicated, disconnect one glow plug lead at a time.
- 6. Turn switch to the HEAT position. Observe the ammeter. Reconnect the lead.
- 7. The glow plug that does not change the reading on the ammeter, when the switch is turned on, is the defective glow plug.
(23)Engine Mounting Bolts
Tighten the engine mounting bolts. See BOLT TORQUE CHART.
(24)Crankshaft Seals
- 1. Inspect for front seal leakage.
- 2. Inspect for rear seal leakage.
(25)Turbocharger
- 1. Remove the turbocharger air inlet and the exhaust outlet.
- 2. Rotate the compressor and turbine wheel by hand.
- 3. The assembly should rotate freely. Feel for excessive end play and radial clearance.
- 4. End play is best checked with a dial indicator. End play should be between .006 inch (0.15 mm) and .011 inch (0.28 mm). If end play exceeds .011 inches (0.28 mm) rebuild or replace the turbocharger.
(26)Water Pump
- 1. Inspect the water pump and rebuild it, or install a rebuilt pump if necessary.
Your authorized dealer is familiar with worn replacement limits and rebuild procedures.
| NOTICE |
|---|
If engine oil has been mixed with the coolant due to a pump malfunction, drain the cooling system, flush and clean the system. |
- 2. Check drain opening between pump seals - clean out if plugged.
(27)Thermostat
The opening temperature of the thermostat (bench test in atmospheric pressure) should be 175 ± 2°F (79 ± 2°C). The thermostat should be fully open at approximately 195°F (90°C).
- 1. Remove the hose clamps and the radiator hose from the thermostat housing.
- 2. Remove the thermostat housing from the engine block.
- 3. Remove the thermostat from the housing.
- 4. Inspect and test the thermostat for proper operation. Replace if necessary.
- 5. Install the thermostat in the thermostat housing.
- 6. Install the thermostat housing on the engine block.
- 7. Install the radiator hose and tighten the hose clamps.
- 8. Start the engine and inspect for leaks and proper operating temperature.
(28)Water Separator
- 1. Shut off the engine and close the fuel supply valve, if equipped.
- 2. Clean all dirt from the separator and surrounding area.
- 3. To remove the element, depress the extended tab with the heel of the hand. Then lift the slotted tab from the locking slot, at the top of the base, with the fingers.
- 4. Pull the old element from the base and discard it.
- 5. Clean the three sealing surfaces (1) on the base (2) with a clean cloth.
- 6. Install the new element (3) to the base by first inserting the roll pin (4) into the outlet passage at the bottom of the base. Align the filter holes with the base holes, and push the element into place.
- 7. Place the lower tab of the clamp in the bottom locking slot of the base. Push the upper tab into the locking slot at the top of the base. Make sure clamp is securely engaged in the top and bottom locking slots.
- 8. Open the fuel valve and start the engine. It may be necessary to prime the fuel system if the engine does not start. Inspect for fuel leaks.