3054 TRUCK ENGINE Caterpillar

Problem 1: Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Ignition Switch Is On.

Probable Cause(s):

* Low Or No Battery Voltage

* Defective Switch, Defective Wiring Or Connection In Switch Circuit

* Defective Cable Or Connection (Battery To Starter)

* Defective Starter Solenoid

* Defective Starter Motor

* Transmission Or Power Take-off Problems Prevents Crankshaft From Turning

* Internal Problems Prevents Crankshaft From Turning

1. Low or no battery voltage:

Check battery voltage. If battery voltage is less than 8 volts for a 12 volt system, or 16 volts for a 24 volt system, put a charge on the battery. If battery will not hold a charge, load test the battery. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

2. Defective switch, defective wiring or connection in switch circuit:

With ignition switch in the "START" position, check voltage at switch connection on starter solenoid. If there is no voltage, or if the voltage is low at this connection and there is good voltage at the battery, check for a defective cable or connection between the battery and the starter.

3. Defective cable or connection (battery to starter):

With ignition switch in the "START" position, check voltage at connection of battery cable to starter. If there is no voltage, or if the voltage is low at this connection and there is good voltage at the battery, check for a defective cable or connection between the battery and the starter.

4. Defective starter solenoid:

Remove and repair or replace a solenoid which does not work when voltage is correct at both the battery and ignition switch connections.

5. Defective starter motor:

If the solenoid works and the starter motor does not turn the crankshaft, the starter motor is defective. Before removing the starter motor, turn the crankshaft by hand to be sure a mechanical failure inside the engine, transmission, or power take-off is not preventing the crankshaft from turning. If the crankshaft turns freely by hand, engage the starter motor again. If the starter motor still will not work, remove the starter motor. Repair or replace the starter motor.

6. Transmission or power take-off (if equipped) problem prevents crankshaft from turning:

If the crankshaft cannot be turned by hand, disconnect the transmission and the power take-off. If the crankshaft will now turn, find the cause of the problem in the transmission or power take-off and make necessary corrections.

7. Internal problem prevents crankshaft from turning:

If the crankshaft cannot be turned after disconnecting the transmission and/or the power take-off, remove the fuel injection nozzles and check for fluid in the cylinders while turning the crankshaft. If fluid in the cylinders is not the problem, the engine must be disassembled to check for other internal problems. Some of the possible problems are bearing seizure, piston seizure, and valves making contact with the pistons.

Problem 2: Engine Hard To Or Will Not Start. Engine Crankshaft Turns Too Slowly.

Probable Cause(s):

* Low Battery Voltage

* Defective Cable Or Connection (Battery To Starter)

* Oil Too Thick For Free Crankshaft Rotation

* Defective Starter Motor

* Extra Outside Loads

* Mechanical Problems Inside Engine

1. Low battery voltage:

Check battery voltage. If battery voltage is less than 8 volts for a 12 volt system, or 16 volts for a 24 volt system, put a change on the battery. If battery will not hold a charge, load test the battery. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

2. Defective cable or connection (battery to starter):

With ignition switch in the "START" position, check voltage at connection of battery cable to starter. If there is no voltage, or if the voltage is low at this connection and there is good voltage at the battery, check for a defective cable or connection between the battery and the starter.

3. Oil too thick for free crankshaft rotation:

Use the recommended Lubrication Viscosities as found in the Operation & Maintenance Manual.

4. Defective starter motor:

Remove and test starter motor. Make repairs as necessary or install a new starter motor.

5. Extra outside loads:

Damage to the power take-off equipment (if equipped) and/or transmission can put extra load on the engine. This prevents free rotation of the crankshaft. To check, disconnect the transmission and power take-off, and start the engine.

6. Mechanical problem inside engine:

Disassemble the engine and check all components for damage.

Problem 3: Engine Hard To Or Will Not Start. Engine Crankshaft Turns Freely

Exhaust Smoke Can Be Seen While Starting (Go to Step 1)

Probable Cause(s):

* Cold Outside Temperatures

* Slow Cranking Speed

* Air In Fuel System

* Poor Quality Fuel

* Low Fuel Pressure

* Fuel Injection Pump Timing Not Correct

* Valve Lash Adjustment Not Correct

* Defective Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

* Low Compression

Exhaust Smoke Cannot Be Seen While Starting (Go to Step 10)

Probable Cause(s):

* No Fuel In Tank(s)

* No Fuel From Lift Pump

* No Fuel To Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

* Exhaust System Not Open

1. Cold outside temperature:

It may be necessary to use starting aids, or to heat engine oil or coolant at temperature below 10°C (50°F).

2. Slow cranking speed:

Cranking speed must be at least 100 rpm. Check the condition of the starting system.

3. Air in the fuel system:

With air in the fuel system the engine will normally be difficult to start, run rough and release a large amount of white smoke. To remove the air from the fuel system, loosen the return line to the fuel tank and put 35 kPa (5 psi) of air pressure to the fuel tank.

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NOTICE
Do not use more than 55 kPa (8 psi) of air pressure in the fuel tank or damage to the tank may result.

Check for leaks at the connections between the fuel tank and the fuel lift pump. If leaks are found, tighten the connections or replace the lines. If there are no visual leaks, remove the fuel supply line from the tank and connect to an outside fuel supply. If this corrects the problem, the suction (standpipe) inside of the fuel tank has a leak.

4. Poor quality fuel:

Remove a small amount of fuel from the tank and check for water in the fuel. If there is water in the fuel, remove fuel from the tank until the tank is free of water. Change the fuel filter and fill the fuel tank with a good quality fuel. The fuel lift pump may be used to fill the fuel filter from the fuel tank before the engine is started. If there is no water in the fuel, start the engine by using an outside source of fuel. If engine starts correctly using different fuel, remove all fuel from the tank and fill with a good quality fuel.

5. Low fuel pressure:

At starting rpm, the minimum fuel pressure for the fuel lift pump must be 30 kPa (4 psi) with clean fuel filters. If the fuel pressure is less than 30 kPa (4 psi), look for air in the fuel system. (If fuel in the fuel tank cannot be checked for air, install a sight tube in the fuel return line). If the fuel pressure is still low, check the fuel lift pump for correct operation.

6. Fuel injection pump timing not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

7. Valve lash adjustment not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118. Inlet valve lash is 0.20 mm (.008 in) and exhaust valve lash is 0.45 mm (.018 in)

8. Defective fuel injection nozzle(s):

Remove the fuel injection nozzle(s) and test. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

9. Low compression:

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

Exhaust Smoke Cannot Be Seen While Starting

Probable Cause(s):

10. No fuel in tank(s):

Check fuel level visually (do not use the fuel gauge only). Be sure tank selection valve is open to the tank with fuel in it. Be sure valve in fuel line between the tanks is open.

11. No fuel from fuel lift pump:

Loosen the fuel line from the fuel filter to the rear of the cylinder head. With ignition switch in the RUN position and accelerator in the "FUEL ON" position, turn the engine with the starter to be sure there is no fuel from the fuel lift pump. To find the cause for no fuel, follow Steps (a) through (d) until the problem is corrected.

a. The fuel priming pump (if equipped) may be used to fill the fuel filter, from the fuel tank before the engine is started.

b. Check shutoff solenoid by turning ignition switch to the RUN position. You must hear a sound when the plunger opens. If no sound is heard, make sure there is battery voltage at the solenoid. If the solenoid does not work, install a new solenoid.

c. If you are not using a good quality of fuel at temperatures below -12°C (10°), it is possible that the fuel in the system can "wax" (not have correct flow characteristics) and cause a restriction in the fuel system. Install a new fuel filter. It may be necessary to drain the complete fuel system and replace with No. 1 grade fuel.

d. Check for fuel supply line restriction by removing the fuel supply line for the fuel filter base. Put 35 kPa (5 psi) of air pressure to the fuel tank.

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NOTICE
Do not use more than 55 kPa (8 psi) of air pressure in the fuel tank or damage to the tank may result.

If there is no fuel, or only a weak flow of fuel from the fuel supply line, there is a restriction in the fuel supply line and/or the fuel tank.

12. No fuel to fuel injection nozzle(s):

a. Check fuel level in the fuel tank and fill if necessary.

b. Install new fuel filters if necessary. Blocked or broken fuel lines should be cleaned or replaced.

c. Defective fuel shutoff solenoid. Remove the fuel shutoff solenoid. Energize the start connection. If the plunger in the solenoid does not move or fails to stay in the retracted position, replace the solenoid.

d. Check the fuel lift pump for damage or wear and make replacements as needed.

e. Malfunction within the governor. Be sure the governor components are not restricted and are free to move. Repair or replace the governor if necessary.

13. Exhaust system not open:

Loosen the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. If the engine will now start, check the exhaust system for damage and/or restrictions.

Problem 4: Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough

Probable Cause(s):

* Air In Fuel System

* Leak Or Break In Fuel Line Between Fuel Lift Pump And Cylinder Head

* Low Fuel Pressure

* Fuel Has A High "Cloud Point"

* Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

* Valve Lash Adjustment Not Correct

* Fuel Injection Pump Timing Not Correct

* Bent Or Broken Pushrod

* Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage

* Valve Leakage, Wear Or Damage To Pistons And/Or Piston Rings, Wear Or Damage To Cylinder Walls

* Moisture In The Fuel System

1. Air in fuel system:

With air in the fuel system the engine will normally be difficult to start, run rough and release a large amount of white smoke. Find the air leak in the fuel system and correct it. If air is in the system, it will generally get in on the suction side of the fuel lift pump. Refer to Problem No. 40, Air In Fuel.

2. Leak or break in fuel line between fuel lift pump and cylinder head:

Install a new fuel line.

3. Low fuel pressure:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bends that restrict fuel flow in the fuel line between fuel tank and fuel lift pump. Look for air in the fuel system. (If fuel in the fuel tank cannot be checked for air, install a sight tube in the fuel line). Make sure the fuel filters are clean, then check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the fuel lift pump must be a 40 to 70 kPa (6 to 10 psi), when cranking the engine for ten seconds. If fuel pressure is lower than the above pressure, replace the fuel lift pump.

4. Fuel has a high "Cloud Point":

The fuel "Cloud Point" is the temperature at which wax begins to form in the fuel. If the atmospheric temperature is lower than the "Cloud Point" of the fuel, wax will form and plug the fuel filter. Change the filter and drain the fuel tank and the complete fuel system. Replace the fuel with a better grade of fuel with a lower "Cloud Point".

5. Defect in fuel injection nozzle(s):

a. Temperature of an exhaust manifold port, when the engine runs at low idle speed, can be an indication of the condition of a fuel injection nozzle. Low temperature at an exhaust manifold port is an indication of no fuel to the cylinder. This can possible be an indication of an injector with a defect. Extra high temperature at an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of too much fuel to the cylinder, also caused by an injector with a defect. NOTE: Only experienced mechanics should use this technique. There can be wide operating temperature variations on the exhaust manifold and the injectors can still be operating correctly.

b. Run engine at the rpm that gives maximum misfiring or rough running. Then loosen a fuel line nut on the fuel injection line for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where loosening the fuel line nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder. Install new parts where needed.

6. Valve lash adjustment not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118. Inlet valve lash is 0.20 mm (.008 in) and exhaust valve lash is 0.45 mm (.018 in). Also check for a bent or broken push rod.

7. Fuel injection pump timing not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

8. Bent or broken push rod:

Check injectors height for any seized injectors and/or bent or broken pushrods. Replace pushrods as necessary.

9. Cylinder head gasket leakage:

Leakage at the gasket of the cylinder head can show as an outside leak or can cause loss of coolant through the radiator overflow. Remove the radiator cap and with the engine running look for air bubbles in the coolant. Bubbles in the coolant are a sign of probable leakage at the head gasket. Remove the cylinder head from the engine. Check the cylinder head, cylinder walls and head gasket surface of the cylinder block for cracks. When installing the head, use a new head gasket. Tighten the bolts that hold the cylinder head according to Specifications.

10. Valve leakage; wear or damage to pistons and/or piston rings; wear or damage to cylinder walls:

If leakage is heard at the inlet manifold, the inlet valves leak. If the leakage is heard at the exhaust manifold, the exhaust valves leak. Pistons or rings that have damage can be the cause of too much pressure in the crankcase. This condition can cause more than the normal amount of fumes (blow-by) coming from the crankcase breather. The 8T2700 Indicator Group is used to check the amount of blow-by. The test procedure is in Special Instruction, SEHS8712.

11. Moisture In The Fuel System:

Locate, remove and install new clean fuel.

Problem 5: Engine Stall At Low RPM

Probable Cause(s):

* Fuel Pressure Is Low

* Low Idle RPM Too Low

* Engine Accessories

* Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

1. Fuel pressure is low:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bends that restrict fule flow in the fuel line between fuel tank and fuel lift pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Make sure the fuel filters are clean, then check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the fuel lift pump must be a minimum of 40 to 70 kPa (6 to 10 psi) at full load speed. If fuel pressure is lower than the above pressure, check the fuel lift pump.

2. Low idle rpm too low:

Make adjustment to fuel injection pump so low idle rpm is 750 rpm. See Low Idle Speed Adjustment, refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

3. Engine accessories:

Check engine accessories for damage and make repair or replacement. If necessary, disconnect the accessories and test the engine.

4. Defect in fuel injection nozzle(s):

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

Problem 6: Rough Idle

Probable Cause(s):

* Fuel Injection Pump Timing Not Correct

* Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

1. Fuel injection pump timing not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

2. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s):

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

Problem 7: Low Power

Probable Cause(s):

* Dirty Fuel Filters

* Oil Level Too High

* Restrictions And/Or Leaks In Air Inlet System

* Fuel Pressure Is Low

* Poor Quality Fuel Or Water In Fuel

* Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

* Valve Lash Adjustment Not Correct

* Wrong Fuel Injection Pump Timing

* Fuel Setting Incorrect

* Turbocharger Has Carbon Deposits Or Other Cause Of Friction

1. Dirty fuel filters:

Install new fuel filters.

2. Oil level too high:

Remove dipstick and check oil level. If level is too high, drain oil to bring the oil level to the desired level.

NOTE: An oil sample should be run to find out if the oil level is increasing due to a fuel leak or other engine problem.

3. Restrictions and leaks in the air inlet system.

a. Check for leaks.

b. Check the pressure in the air inlet manifold.

c. Look for restrictions in the air cleaner.

d. Defect in the air to air aftercooler. Check temperature of inlet and outlet air from air cooler. Remove any external or internal restrictions.

4. Fuel pressure is low:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bends that restrict fuel flow in the fuel line between fuel tank and fuel lift pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Make sure the fuel filters are clean, then check fuel pressure. The normal outlet pressure of the fuel lift pump must be a 40 to 70 kPa (6 to 10 psi). If fuel pressure is lower than the above pressure, check the fuel lift pump.

5. Poor quality fuel or water in fuel:

Remove the fuel from the fuel tank. Install new fuel filter. Put a good grade of clean fuel in the fuel tank.

6. Defect in fuel injection nozzle(s):

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

7. Valve lash adjustment not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

8. Wrong fuel injection pump timing dimension:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

9. Fuel setting incorrect:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118. See TMI (Technical Marketing Information) or Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct fuel setting.

10. Turbocharger has carbon deposits or other cause of friction:

Make inspection and repair turbocharger as necessary.

Problem 8: Engine Speed Is Not Stable

Probable Cause(s):

* Fuel Pressure Is Low

* Engine Misfiring

1. Fuel pressure is low:

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bends that restrict fuel flow in the fuel line between fuel tank and fuel lift pump. Look for air in the fuel system. (If fuel in the fuel tank cannot be checked for air, install a sight tube in the fuel line). Make sure the fuel filters are clean, then check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the fuel lift pump must be a 40 to 70 kPa (6 to 10 psi) at full load speed. If fuel pressure is lower than the above pressure, check the fuel lift pump.

2. Engine misfiring:

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

Problem 9: Too Much Vibration

Probable Cause(s):

* Vibration Damper Loose

* Vibration Damper Has A Defect

* Engine Supports Are Loose, Wrong Or Have A Defect

* Driven Equipment Is Not In Alignment Or Is Out Of Balance

* Misfiring Or Running Rough

1. Vibration damper loose:

Check vibration damper for damage. Tighten bolts. If vibration damper bolt holes have damage or wear, replace with new parts.

2. Vibration damper has a defect:

Install a new vibration damper.

3. Engine supports are loose, wrong or have a defect:

Tighten all mounting bolts. Install new components if necessary.

4. Driven equipment is not in alignment or is out of balance:

Check alignment and balance, correct if needed.

5. Misfiring or running rough:

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

Problem 10: Loud Combustion Noise (Sound)

Probable Cause(s):

* Air In The Fuel System

* Poor Quality Fuel

* Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

* Mechanical Problem

1. Air in fuel system:

With air in the fuel system the engine will normally be difficult to start, run rough and release a large amount of white smoke. If air is in the system, it will generally get in on the suction side of the fuel transfer pump. Check for leakage at the connections between the fuel tank and the fuel transfer pump. If leaks are found, tighten the connections or replace the lines. If there are no visual leaks, remove the fuel supply line from the tank and connect it to an outside fuel supply. If this corrects the problem, the suction line (standpipe) inside the fuel tank has a leak. If this does not correct the problem, install a sight tube in the fuel return line and check the injectors to verify that they are properly seated. This can be accomplished by moving each injector (one at a time) to the "FUEL ON" position momentarily and checking the sight tube for any increase in air bubbles. Push on the rack bar on the exhaust manifold side of the injector to move the injector to the "FUEL ON" position. If an increase in air is found, then remove that injector. Check the tip seal (O-ring) and replace if it is defective. Inspect the injector sleeve for a smooth sealing surface for the injector to seat on. If any defects are noted, the sleeve can be reamed or it can be replaced if necessary.

The temperature of an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of a cylinder that has air being delivered to it. Check the exhaust manifold temperatures and compare the results. A lower than normal cylinder temperature indicates that the cylinder may be receiving air from the injector.

The color of the exhaust smoke can also indicate which cylinder has a combustion leak. Move each injector (one at a time) to the "FUEL ON" position momentarily while checking the color of the exhaust smoke. The cylinder that has air will produce smoke that is gray or white in color.

2. Poor quality fuel:

Remove the fuel from the fuel tank. Install new fuel filter. Put a good grade of clean fuel in the fuel tank.

3. Wrong fuel injection pump timing:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

4. Defect in fuel injection nozzle(s):

See, Fuel Injection Nozzle Tests. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

5. Mechanical problem:

Find and correct the problem. The problem may be incorrect valve lash, sticking valve, or other internal problem.

Problem 11: Valve Train Noise

Probable Cause(s):

* Too Much Valve Lash

* Damage To Valve Springs, Locks Or Worn Valve Lifter

* Not Enough Lubrication

* Damage To Valves

* Damage To Camshaft

1. Too much valve lash:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

2. Damage to valve springs, locks, or broken or worn valve lifter:

Install new parts where necessary. Broken locks can cause the valve to get into the cylinder. This will cause much damage.

3. Not enough lubrication:

Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm, but only a small flow of oil at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those that send oil to the cylinder head.

4. Damage to valves:

Make a replacement of the valves and make an adjustment as necessary.

5. Damage to camshaft:

Make a replacement of parts with damage. Clean engine thoroughly.

Problem 12: Oil In Cooling System

Probable Cause(s):

* Defective Engine Oil Cooler

* Failure Of Cylinder Head Gasket

1. Defective engine oil cooler:

Inspect cooler and make a replacement or repair defective oil cooler. Flush cooling system to remove oil.

2. Failure of cylinder head gasket:

Remove the radiator cap and with the engine running look for air bubbles in the coolant. Bubbles in the coolant are a sign of probable leakage at the head gasket. Remove the cylinder head from the engine. Check the cylinder head, cylinder walls and head gasket surface of the cylinder block for cracks. When installing the head, use a new head gasket. Tighten the bolts that hold the cylinder head as per Specifications.

Problem 13: Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine

Probable Cause(s):

* Failure Of Bearings For Connecting Rod

* Damaged Gears

* Damaged Crankshaft

* Defect In Accessory Equipment

1. Failure of bearings for connecting rod:

Inspect the bearings for the connecting rods and the bearing surfaces (journals) on the crankshaft. Install new parts where necessary.

2. Damaged gears:

Install new parts where necessary.

3. Damaged crankshaft:

Make replacement of the crankshaft.

4. Defect in accessory equipment:

Repair as needed or install new components.

Problem 14: Fuel Consumption Too High

Probable Cause(s):

* Fuel System Leaks

* Fuel And Combustion Noise (Knock)

* Incorrect Fuel Injection Pump Timing

* Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

1. Fuel system leaks:

a. Check fuel system for any external leaks. Check all lines, hoses, and fittings for leaks and tighten or replace as necessary.

b. Look for fuel leaking from the fuel injection nozzle(s) where they seal with the cylinder head. Also depending on the amount of leakage an oil sample should be taken and checked for fuel dilution. Change oil and oil filter if necessary. If fuel is found in the coolant, then check the cylinder head for cracks or erosion. If defects are found, then repair or replace the cylinder head.

2. Fuel and combustion noise (knock):

See Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough. See Problem No. 10, Loud Combustion Noise (Sound).

3. Incorrect fuel injection pump timing:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

4. Defect in fuel injection nozzle(s):

If fuel is leaking from a fuel injection nozzle, remove the fuel injection nozzle and perform the Fuel Injection Nozzle Tests. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

Problem 15: Too Much Valve Lash

Probable Cause(s):

* End Of Stem Worn Or Rocker Arm Contact Surface Worn

* Worn Push Rods

* Broken Or Worn Valve Lifter

* Worn Lobes On Camshaft

* Not Enough Lubrication

1. End of valve stem worn or rocker arm contact surface worn:

If there is too much wear, install new valves or rocker arms. Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

2. Worn push rods:

If there is too much wear, install new valves or rocker arms. Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

3. Broken or worn valve lifter:

Install new valve lifters. Check camshaft for wear. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stem. Clean engine thoroughly. Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

4. Worn lobes on camshaft:

Check valve lash. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stems. Install a new camshaft. Install new valve lifters. Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to System Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

5. Not enough lubrication:

Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at high engine rpm, but only a small flow at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those sending oil to the cylinder head.

Problem 16: Little Or No Valve Lash

Probable Cause(s):

* Worn Valve Seat Or Face Of Valve

1. Worn valve seat or face of valve:

Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed. Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to System Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

Problem 17: Oil At The Exhaust

Probable Cause(s):

* Failed Turbocharger Seals

* Worn Or Failed Valve Guide Seals

* Worn Valve Guides

* Broken Or Worn Piston Rings

* Scored Or Worn Cylinder Wall(s)

1. Failed turbocharger seals:

Check inlet manifold and exhaust manifold for oil. If oil is present, repair the turbocharger.

2. Worn or failed valve guide seals:

Inspect seals and replace as necessary.

3. Worn valve guides:

See the Specifications for the maximum permissible wear of the valve guides. If necessary, recondition the cylinder head.

4. Broken or worn piston rings:

Pistons or rings that have damage can be the cause of too much pressure in the crankcase. This condition will cause more than the normal amount of fumes (blow-by) coming from the crankcase breather. The 8T2700 Indicator Group is used to check the amount of blow-by. The test procedure is in Special Instruction, SEHS8712. Inspect and install new parts as needed.

5. Scored or worn cylinder walls:

Inspect cylinder walls for problems. Hone or bore and sleeve as necessary.

Problem 18: Engine Has Excessive Early Wear

Probable Cause(s):

* Dirt In Lubrication Oil

* Dirt In Inlet Air

* Fuel Leakage Into Lubrication Oil

* Incorrect Lubrication Oil

* Incorrect Engine Settings

1. Dirt in lubrication oil:

Remove dirty lubrication oil. Install new filters. Put clean oil in the engine. Check oil filter bypass valve for a weak or broken spring.

2. Dirt in inlet air:

Inspect all gaskets and connections. Make repairs if leaks are found.

3. Fuel leakage into lubrication oil:

This will cause high fuel consumption and low engine oil pressure. This condition may also increase the oil level in the crankcase. Make repairs if leaks are found. Install new parts were needed.

4. Incorrect lubrication oil:

Check oil recommendations for correct oil specifications for engine operating conditions.

5. Incorrect engine settings:

Check timing, fuel setting, and valve settings. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

Problem 19: Coolant In Lubrication Oil

Probable Cause(s):

* Failure Of The Oil Cooler Core

* Failure Of The Cylinder Head Gasket

* Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Head

* Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Block

1. Failure of the oil cooler core:

Install a new core for the defective oil cooler. Drain crankcase and refill with clean lubricant. Install new oil filter.

2. Failure of cylinder head gasket:

Remove the radiator cap and with the engine running look for air bubbles in the coolant. Bubbles in the coolant are a sign of probable leakage at the head gasket. Remove the cylinder head from the engine. Check the cylinder head, cylinder walls and head gasket surface of the cylinder block for cracks. When installing the cylinder head, use a new head gasket. Tighten the bolts that hold the cylinder head according to the Specifications, SENR1117.

3. Crack or defect in cylinder head:

Install a new cylinder head.

4. Crack or defect in cylinder block:

Install a new cylinder block.

Problem 20: Too Much Exhaust Smoke (Black Or Gray):

Engine Runs Smoothly (Go to Step 1)

Probable Cause(s):

* Engine Used At An Altitude Higher Than 762 m (2500 ft)

* Not Enough Air For Combustion

* Exhaust System Restriction

* Poor Quality Fuel

* Fuel Injection Pump Timing Not Correct

* Valve Adjustment Is Not Correct Or Valve Leakage

* Defective Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

Engine Runs Rough (Go to Step 8)

* Misfiring Cylinders

* Fuel Injection Pump Timing Is Not Correct

* Air In Fuel System

1. Engine used at an altitude above 762 m (2500 ft):

Consult with the TMI (Technical Marketing Information) or Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche specifications for proper operating altitude for engine certifications.

2. Not enough air for combustion:

A. Restriction in air cleaner:

If the air cleaner has a restriction indicator, see if the red piston is in view. If there is no restriction indicator, restriction can be checked with a water manometer or a vacuum gauge (which measures in inches of water). Make a connection of the piping between the air cleaner and the air inlet of the turbocharger. Check with the engine running at full load rpm. Maximum restriction is 762 mm (30 inches of water). If a gauge is not available, visually check the air cleaner element for dirt. If the element is dirty, clean the element or install a new element.

B. Air inlet piping damage or restriction:

Make a visual inspection of the air inlet system and check for damage to piping, rags in the inlet piping, or damage to the rain cap or the cap is pushed too far onto the inlet pipe. If no damage is seen, check the inlet restriction with a clean air cleaner element.

C. Turbocharger not operating properly:

Check turbocharger for proper operation.

D. Engine used in a lug condition:

"Lugging" (when the vehicle is used in a gear too high for engine rpm to go up as accelerator pedal is pushed farther down, or when the vehicle is used in a gear where engine rpm goes down with accelerator pedal at maximum travel) the engine causes a reduction in the intake of air with full fuel delivery to the cylinders. Because there is not enough air to burn all the fuel, the fuel that is not used comes out of the exhaust as black smoke. To prevent "lugging" the engine, use a gear where the engine can have "acceleration" (increase in speed) under load.

3. Exhaust system restriction:

Make a visual inspection of the air inlet system and check for damage to piping or a defective muffler. If no damage is found, check the system by checking the back pressure from the exhaust (pressure difference measurement between exhaust outlet and atmosphere). The back pressure must not be more than 686 mm (27 inches of water). If a gauge is not available, check by removing the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifold. With the exhaust pipes removed, start the engine and load the engine on a chassis dynamometer to see if the problem is corrected.

4. Poor quality fuel:

Test the engine with fuel according to recommendations by Caterpillar Inc. See, Diesel Fuels And Your Engine, SEBD0717.

5. Fuel injection pump timing not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

6. Valve adjustment is not correct or valve leakage:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118. Inlet valve lash is 0.20 mm (.008 in) and exhaust valve lash is 0.45 mm (.018 in).

7. Defective fuel injection nozzle(s):

Defective fuel injection nozzle(s) will normally cause the engine to "misfire" (injection not regular) and run rough, but can cause too much smoke with the engine running smooth. Remove and check the fuel injection nozzle(s). See, Fuel Injection Nozzle Tests. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting SENR1118.

Engine Runs Rough

Probable Cause(s):

8. Misfiring cylinders:

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

9. Fuel injection pump timing not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

10. Air in fuel system:

With air in the fuel system the engine will normally be difficult to start, run rough and release a large amount of white smoke. If air is in the system, it will generally get in on the suction side of the fuel lift pump. Check for leakage at the connections between the fuel tank and the fuel lift pump. If leaks are found, tighten the connections or replace the lines. If there are no visual leaks, remove the fuel supply line from the tank and connect it to an outside fuel supply. If this corrects the problem, the suction line (standpipe) inside the fuel tank has a leak.

The temperature of an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of a cylinder that has air being delivered to it. Check the exhaust manifold temperatures and compare the results. A lower than normal cylinder temperature indicates that the cylinder may be receiving air from the fuel injection nozzle.

Problem 21: Too Much Exhaust Smoke (White Or Blue)

White Smoke (Go to Step 1)

Probable Cause(s):

* Cold Outside Temperature

* Long Idle Periods

* Poor Quality Fuel

* Air In Fuel System

* Cold Start Heater Is Not Operating Properly

* Valve Adjustment Not Correct

* Fuel Injection Pump Timing Not Correct

* Misfiring Cylinder(s)

* Defective Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

Blue Smoke (Go to Step 10)

* Oil Level In Engine Too High

* Failure Of Turbocharger Oil Seal

* Worn Valve Guides

* Worn Piston Rings And/Or Cylinder Wall(s)

* Wear Or Damage To Piston

1. Cold outside temperatures:

When the air outside is cold, the cylinder temperature is cooler. Not all the fuel will burn in the cylinders. The fuel which does not burn comes out the exhaust as white smoke. White smoke is normal in cold temperatures until the engine operates long enough to become warm. There will be less white smoke if No. 1 diesel fuel is used.

2. Long idle periods:

When an engine runs at idle speed for a long period of time, the cylinders cool and all of the fuel does not burn. Do not idle an engine for a long period of time. Stop an engine when it is not in use. If long idle periods are necessary, use No. 1 diesel fuel.

3. Poor quality fuel:

Test the engine using fuel according to recommendations by Caterpillar Inc. See, Diesel Fuels And Your Engine, SEBD0717.

4. Air in fuel system:

With air in the fuel system the engine will normally be difficult to start, run rough and release a large amount of white smoke. Find the air leak in the fuel system and correct it. If air is in the system, it will generally get in on the suction side of the fuel lift pump. Refer to Problem No. 40, Air In Fuel.

5. Cold start heater is not operating properly:

Check the operation of the cold start heater. Refer to Problem No. 38, Cold Start Heater.

6. Valve adjustment not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

7. Fuel injection pump timing not correct:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

8. Misfiring cylinder(s):

Refer to Problem No. 4, Engine Misfiring Or Running Rough.

9. Defective fuel injection nozzle(s):

Defective fuel injection nozzles will normally cause the engine to "misfire" (injection not regular) and run rough, but can cause too much smoke with the engine running smooth. Remove and check the fuel injectors. See, Fuel Injection Nozzle Tests. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

Blue Smoke

Probable Cause(s):

10. Oil level in engine too high:

Do not put too much oil in the crankcase. If the oil level in the crankcase goes up as the engine is used, check for fuel in the lubrication oil. Refer to Problem No. 36, Fuel In Lubrication Oil.

11. Failure of turbocharger oil seal:

Check inlet manifold for oil and repair turbocharger.

12. Worn valve guides:

See the Specifications Service Manual for the maximum permissible wear of the valve guides. If necessary, recondition the cylinder head.

13. Worn piston rings and/or cylinder walls:

Worn piston rings and/or cylinder walls can be the cause of blue smoke and can cause a loss of compression. This condition can cause more than the normal amount of fumes (blow-by) coming from the crankcase breather. The 8T2700 Indicator Group is used to check the amount of blow-by. The test procedure is in Special Instruction, SEHS8712. If necessary make a visual inspection of the cylinder walls and piston rings. Measure the cylinder walls and piston rings. For the cylinder and piston ring specifications see the Specification Service Manual. Repair and replace parts as necessary.

NOTE: High wear at low mileage is normally caused by dirt coming into the engine with the inlet air.

14. Wear or damage to pistons:

Check piston ring to groove clearance. Pistons which have worn grooves and pistons with damage or defects can cause blue smoke and too much oil consumption. Make sure the oil return holes under the oil ring are open. Replace pistons as necessary.

Problem 22: Engine Has Low Oil Pressure

Probable Cause(s):

* Defect In Oil Pressure Gauge Or Sending Unit

* Dirty Oil Filter Or Oil Cooler

* Diesel Fuel In Lubrication Oil

* Oil Pump Has A Defect

* Oil Pump Suction Pipe Has A Defect

* Oil Pressure Relief Valves Does Not Close

* Too Much Clearance Between Rocker Arm Shaft And Rocker Arms

* Too Much Clearance Between Camshaft And Camshaft Bearings

* Too Much Clearance Between Crankshaft And Crankshaft Bearings

1. Defect in oil pressure gauge or sending unit:

Install new gauge or sending unit.

2. Dirty oil filter or oil cooler:

Change oil and oil filter. If problem persists, check the operation of bypass valve for the filter. Clean or install new oil cooler core.

3. Diesel fuel in lubrication oil:

Find the place where diesel fuel gets into the lubrication oil. Pressure check the fuel system to check for porosity in the cylinder head. Make repairs as needed. Remove the lubrication oil that has diesel fuel in it. Install new oil filter. Fill the engine with clean oil. Refer to Problem No. 36, Fuel In Lubrication Oil.

4. Oil pump has a defect:

Repair or replace oil pump.

5. Oil pump suction pipe has a defect:

Replacement of pipe is needed.

6. Oil pressure relief valve does not close:

Clean valve and housing. Install new parts as necessary. Check bypass valves in oil cooler and oil filter base.

7. Too much clearance between rocker arm shaft and rocker arms:

Check lubrication in valve compartments. Install new parts as necessary.

8. Too much clearance between camshaft and camshaft bearings:

Install new camshaft and camshaft bearings if necessary.

9. Too much clearance between crankshaft and crankshaft bearings:

Inspect the bearings and make replacement as necessary.

Problem 23: Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil

Probable Cause(s):

* Too Much Lubrication Oil In The Engine

* Oil Leaks

* Oil Temperature Is Too High

* Worn Valve Guide Seals

* Worn Pistons, Rings Or Cylinder Walls

* Failure Of Seal Rings In Turbocharger

* Worn Valve Guides

1. Too much lubrication oil in engine:

Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine.

2. Oil leaks:

Find all oil leaks. Make repairs as needed. Check for a dirty crankcase breather.

3. Oil temperature is too high:

Check operation of oil cooler. Install new parts if necessary. Clean the core of the oil cooler.

4. Worn valve guide seals:

Replace as necessary.

5. Worn pistons, rings or cylinder walls:

Pistons or rings that have damage can be the cause of too much pressure in the crankcase. This condition will cause more than the normal amount of fumes (blow-by) coming from the crankcase breather. The 8T2700 Indicator Group is used to check the amount of blow-by. The test procedure is in Special Instruction, SEHS8712. Inspect and install new parts as needed.

6. Failure of seal rings in turbocharger:

Check inlet manifold for oil and make repairs to the turbocharger if necessary.

7. Worn valve guides:

See the Specifications Service Manual for the maximum permissible wear of the valve guides. If necessary, recondition the cylinder head.

Problem 24: Above Normal Coolant Temperature

Probable Cause(s):

* Low Coolant Level

* Improper Coolant Mixture

* Air In Cooling System

* Fan Clutch

* Temperature Gauge

* Sending Unit

* Radiator

* Radiator Cap

* Wrong Fan, Fan Or Shroud Not In Correct Position

* Loose Belt(s)

* Hose(s)

* Air Inlet Restriction

* Exhaust Restriction

* Shunt Line

* Water Temperature Regulator

* Defective Water Pump

* Air Flow Through Engine Compartment

* Aftercooler

* High Outside Temperature

* Operation At High Altitude

* Engine Used In Lug Condition

* Fuel Injection Pump Timing

1. Low coolant level:

If the coolant level is too low, not enough coolant will go through the engine and radiator. This lack of coolant will not take enough heat from the engine and there will not be enough flow of coolant to release the heat into the cooling air. Low coolant level is caused by leaks or wrong filling of the radiator. With the engine cool, be sure that coolant can be seen at the low end of the fill neck on the radiator top tank.

2. Improper coolant mixture:

Check the mixture of antifreeze and water. The mixture should be approximately 50 percent water and 50 percent antifreeze with a three to six percent coolant conditioner. If the system is not correct, drain the system as needed and put the correct mixture of water, antifreeze and coolant conditioner in the cooling system.

3. Air in cooling system:

Air can enter the cooling system in different ways. The most common causes are not filling the cooling system correctly, and combustion gas leaking into the cooling system. Combustion gas can get into the system through inside cracks, a defective cylinder head, or head gasket. Air in the cooling system causes a reduction in coolant flow and bubbles in the coolant. Air bubbles hold coolant away from the engine parts, preventing the transfer of heat to the coolant.

4. Fan clutch:

A fan clutch not turning at the correct speed can cause improper air speed across the radiator core. The lack of proper air flow across the core can cause the coolant not to cool to the proper temperature differential.

5. Temperature gauge:

A temperature gauge which does not work correctly will not show the correct temperature. If the temperature gauge shows that the coolant temperature is too hot but other conditions are normal, either install a gauge of known accuracy, or check the cooling system with the 8T0470 Thermistor Thermometer Group.

6. Sending unit:

In some conditions the temperature sensor in the engine sends signals to a sending unit which converts these signals to an electrical impulse which is used by a cab mounted gauge. If for some reason the sending unit malfunctions or the electric wire breaks or shorts out the gauge can show an incorrect reading.

7. Radiator:

* Restriction to flow of coolant through core tubes of radiator of air flow restriction. Check for debris between the fins of the radiator core which prevents free air flow through the radiator core. Check the radiator for debris, dirt, or deposits on the inside of the radiator core which will prevent free flow of coolant through the radiator.

* A radiator which is too small does not have enough area to release the heat to the cooling air. This will cause the engine to run at a higher than normal temperature. Make sure the radiator size is according to the Truck Manufacturer.

* Winter fronts (if equipped) can cause high coolant temperatures on warm days if left installed. Winter fronts can also cause low power problems with air to air aftercooling.

* Shutters (if installed) not opening correctly can cause overheating due to the restriction of air movement across the radiator. Check the opening temperature of the shutters. The shutters must be closed at a temperature below the fully open temperature of the water temperature regulators. Shutters can also cause low power problems with air to air aftercooling.

8. Radiator cap:

A pressure drop in the radiator can cause the boiling point to lower causing the cooling system to boil over. A cooling system pressure tester may be used to check the cooling system pressure as well as the pressure cap relief valve. If the cap fails the test, check the rubber seal on the cap as well as the operation of the pressure relief valve.

9. Wrong fan, fan or shroud not in correct position:

A wrong fan, or a fan or shroud in a wrong position will cause a reduction or a loss of air flow through the radiator. The fan must be large enough to send air through most of the area of the radiator core. Make sure the fan size, fan shroud and position of the fan and shroud are according to the recommendations of the Truck Manufacturer.

10. Loose belt(s):

Loose fan or water pump belts will cause a reduction in air and coolant flow. Tighten the belts according to the Belt Tension Chart.

11. Hose(s):

Defective hoses with leaks can normally be seen. Hoses that have no visual leaks can collapse (pull together) during operation and cause a restriction in the flow of coolant. Hoses become soft and/or get cracks after a period of time. Hoses must be changed after 50,000 miles or a year of use. The inside of a hose can deteriorate, and the loose particles of the hose can cause a restriction of the coolant flow.

12. Air inlet restriction:

Restriction of the air coming into the engine can cause high cylinder temperatures and more than normal amount of heat to pass to the cooling system. Check for restriction with a water manometer or a vacuum gauge (which mmeasures in inches of water). Connect the gauge to the engine air inlet between the air cleaner and the inlet to the turbocharger. With the gauge installed, run the engine at full load rpm and check the restriction. Maximum restriction of the air inlet is 635 mm (25 inches of water). If the indication is higher than maximum permissible restriction, remove the foreign material from the filter element, or install a new filter element and check for the restriction again. If the indication is still too high, there must be a restriction in the inlet piping.

13. Exhaust restriction:

Restriction in the exhaust system can cause high cylinder temperatures and more than normal amount of heat to pass to the cooling system. To check if there is an exhaust restriction, make a visual inspection of the exhaust system. Check for damage to piping or for a defective muffler. If no damage is found, check the exhaust system for back pressure from the exhaust (pressure difference measurement between exhaust outlet and atmosphere). The back pressure must not be more than 1016 mm (40 inches of water). Check the system by removing the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. With the exhaust pipes removed, start and run the engine to see if the problem is corrected.

14. Shunt line:

A restriction of the shunt line from the radiator top tank to the engine water pump inlet, or a shunt line not installed correctly, will cause a reduction in water pump efficiency. The result will be low coolant flow and overheating.

15. Water temperature regulator:

A water temperature regulator that does not open, or only opens part of the way, can cause above normal heating. To test the water temperature regulator, refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

16. Defective water pump:

A water pump with a loose or damaged impeller does not pump enough coolant for correct engine cooling. Remove the water pump and check for damage to the impeller.

17. Air flow through engine compartment:

The air flow through the radiator comes out of the engine compartment. Make sure the filters, air conditioners and similar items are not installed in a way which prevents free flow of air into and out of the engine compartment.

18. Aftercooler:

Restriction of air flow through the air to air aftercooler. Check for debris or deposits which would prevent the free flow of air through the aftercooler.

19. High outside temperature:

When outside temperatures are too high for the rating of the cooling system, there is not enough temperature difference between the outside air and coolant temperatures. To get better cooling, use the truck in a lower gear.

20. Operation at high altitude:

The cooling capacity of the cooling system goes down as the truck is used at higher altitudes. A system, under pressure, large enough to keep the coolant from boiling must be used.

21. Engine used in a lug condition:

"Lugging" (when the truck is used in a gear too high for engine rpm to go up as accelerator pedal is pushed farther down, or when the truck is used in a gear where engine rpm goes down with accelerator pedal at maximum travel) the engine causes the engine rpm and fan rpm to be low. This low rpm causes a reduction in air flow through the radiator, and a reduction in the flow of coolant through the system. This combination of less air and less coolant flow during high input of fuel will cause above normal heating.

22. Fuel injection pump timing:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

Problem 25: Below Normal Coolant Temperature

Probable Cause(s):

* Long Idle Periods

* Very Light Loads

* Water Temperature Regulator

1. Long idle periods:

When the engine is running with no load, only a small quantity of fuel is used and engine heat is removed too fast.

2. Very light load:

Very light loads, and a very slow speed or downhill travel can cause below normal heating because of the low heat input of the engine. The installation of shutters helps to correct this condition.

3. Water temperature regulator:

A water temperature regulator that is "stuck" open (will not move to the closed position) will cause below normal heating. A regulator that is stuck between the open and closed positions, can cause below normal coolant temperatures when the truck has a light load.

Problem 26: Exhaust Temperature Is Too High

Probable Cause(s):

* Air Inlet System Has A Leak

* Exhaust System Has A Leak

* Air Inlet Or Exhaust System Has A Restriction

* Wrong Fuel Injection Pump Timing

* Engine Operating In A Lug Condition

1. Air inlet system has a leak:

Check pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restriction at the air cleaner. Correct any leaks.

2. Exhaust system has a leak:

Find cause of exhaust leak. Make repairs as necessary.

3. Air inlet or exhaust system has a restriction:

Remove restriction.

4. Wrong fuel injection pump timing:

Check and make necessary adjustments. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

5. Engine operated in a lug condition:

"Lugging" (when the truck is used in a gear too high for engine rpm to go up as accelerator pedal is pushed farther down, or when the truck is used in a gear where engine rpm goes down with accelerator pedal at maximum travel) the engine causes the engine rpm and fan rpm to be low. This low rpm causes a reduction in air flow through the radiator, and a reduction in the flow of coolant through the system. This combination of less air and less coolant flow during high input of fuel will cause above normal heating.

Problem 27: Starter Motor Does Not Turn

Probable Cause(s):

* Low Or No Battery Voltage

* Defective Cable Or Connection (Battery To Starter)

* Defective Starter Solenoid

* Defective Starter Motor

* Internal Mechanical Problems Prevents Crankshaft From Turning

1. Low or no battery voltage:

Check battery voltage. If battery voltage is less than 8 volts for a 12 volt system, or 16 volts for a 24 volt system, put a charge on the battery. If battery will not hold a charge, load test the battery. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

2. Defective cable or connection (battery to starter):

With ignition switch in the "START" position, check voltage at switch connection on starter solenoid. If there is no voltage, or if the voltage is low at this connection and there is good voltage at the battery, check for a defective cable or connection between the battery and the starter.

3. Defective starter solenoid:

Remove and repair a solenoid which does not work when voltage is correct at both the battery and ignition switch connections.

4. Defective starter motor:

If the solenoid works and the starter motor does not turn the crankshaft, the starter motor is defective. Before removing the starter motor, turn the crankshaft by hand to be sure a mechanical failure inside the engine, transmission, or power take-off is not preventing the crankshaft from turning. If the crankshaft turns freely by hand, engage the starter motor again. If the starter motor still will not work, remove the starter motor. Repair or replace the starter motor.

5. Internal mechanical problems prevents crankshaft from turning;

If the crankshaft cannot be turned after disconnecting the transmission and/or the power take-off, remove the fuel injection nozzles and check for fluid in the cylinders while turning the crankshaft. If fluid in the cylinders is not the problem, the engine must be disassembled to check for other internal problems. Some of the possible problems are bearing seizure, piston seizure, and valves making contact with the pistons.

Problem 28: Alternator Gives No Change

Probable Cause(s):

* Loose Drive Belt For Alternator

* Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect

* Brushes Have A Defect

* Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect

1. Loose drive belt for alternator:

Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging or ground return circuit or battery connections have a defect:

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of defective parts.

3. Brushes have a defect:

Install new brushes.

4. Rotor (field coil) has a defect:

Install a new rotor.

Problem 29: Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular

Probable Cause(s):

* Loose Drive Belt For Alternator

* Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect

* Alternator Regulator Has A Defect

* Alternator Brushes Have A Defect

* Rectifier Diodes Have A Defect

* Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect

1. Loose drive belt for alternator:

Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging or ground return circuit or battery connections have a defect:

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of defective parts.

3. Alternator regulator has a defect:

Replace the alternator regulator.

4. Alternator brushes have a defect:

Install new brushes.

5. Rectifier diodes have a defect:

Make replacement of rectifier diode that has a defect.

6. Rotor (field coil) has a defect:

Install a new rotor.

Problem 30: Alternator Charge Too High

Probable Cause(s):

* Alternator Or Alternator Regulator Has Loose Connections

* Alternator Regulator Has A Defect

1. Alternator or alternator regulator has loose connections:

Tighten all connections to alternator or alternator regulator.

2. Alternator regulator has a defect:

Replace the alternator regulator.

Problem 31: Alternator Has Noise

Probable Cause(s):

* Drive Belt For Alternator Is Worn Or Has A Defect

* Loose Alternator Drive Pulley

* Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For Alternator Are Not In Alignment

* Worn Alternator Bearings

1. Drive belt for alternator is worn or has a defect:

Install a new drive belt for the alternator.

2. Loose alternator drive pulley:

Check key groove in pulley for wear. If groove is worn, install a new pulley. Tighten pulley nut according to Specifications.

3. Drive belt and drive pulley for alternator are not in alignment:

Make an adjustment to put drive belt and drive pulley in correct alignment.

4. Worn alternator bearings:

Install new bearings in the alternator.

Problem 32: Armature Turns, But Pinion Does Not Engage Flywheel Ring Gear

Probable Cause:

* Pinion Drive/Overrunning Clutch Is Defective

* Damaged Flywheel Ring Gear

* Damaged Or Broken Shift Lever

* Damaged Or Broken Solenoid

* Damaged Or Broken Armature, Idler Or Clutch Gear

1. Pinion drive/overrunning clutch is defective:

Replace pinion drive/overrunning clutch.

2. Damaged flywheel ring gear:

Replace flywheel ring gear.

3. Damaged or broken shift lever:

Replace shift lever.

4. Damaged or broken solenoid:

Replace solenoid.

5. Damaged or broken armature, idler or clutch gear:

Replace armature or idler gear or overrunning clutch as needed.

Problem 33: With Starting Motor On, Pinion Engages Ring Gear, But Engine Does Not Crank (Flywheel Begins To Turn)

Probable Cause:

* Low Battery

* Not Enough Brush Pressure On Commutator

* The Relay That Is Mounted Away From The Starting Motor Is Defective

* Excessive Voltage Drop In Cables

* Clutch Section Of Pinion Drive/Overrunning Clutch Slips

1. Low battery:

Charge battery.

2. Not enough brush pressure on commutator:

Check brush spring tension. Check brushes and clean or replace them.

3. The relay that is mounted away from the starting motor is defective:

Replace relay.

4. Excessive voltage drop in cables:

Check cables and their connections.

5. Clutch section of pinion drive/overrunning clutch slips:

Replace pinion drive/overrunning clutch.

Problem 34: Starting Motor Continues To Run After Ignition Switch Has Been Released

Probable Cause:

* Defective Ignition Switch, Solenoid Or Relay

1. Defective ignition switch, solenoid or relay:

Replace ignition switch, solenoid or relay.

Problem 35: Pinion Does Not Disengage After Engine Starts To Run

Probable Cause:

* Solenoid Return Spring Weak Or Broken

* Shift Lever Is Binding Or Broken

* Defective Ignition Switch Or Relay

1. Solenoid return spring weak or broken:

Replace solenoid return spring.

2. Shift lever is binding or broken:

Find cause of binding. Replace the shift lever if broken.

3. Defective ignition switch or relay:

Replace ignition switch or relay.

Problem 36: Fuel In Lubrication Oil

Probable Cause(s):

* Defective Fuel Injectors:

* Porosity In The Cylinder Head:

* Porosity In Fuel Filter Base

1. Defective fuel injectors:

A defective fuel injector can allow fuel to leak into the lubrication oil. Remove and check the fuel injectors. See, Fuel Injection Nozzle Tests. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

2. Porosity in the cylinder head:

Pressurize the fuel system and check for porosity around the oil drain back holes. If porosity is found, replace the cylinder head.

3. Porosity in fuel filter base:

Check the fuel filter base for porosity or defects. Fuel can be transferred to the crankcase through a defective fuel filter base.

Problem 37: Loss Of Coolant

A. Outside Leaks (Go to Step 1)

Probable Cause(s):

* Leaks In Hoses Or Connections

* Leaks In The Radiator And/Or Expansion Tank

* Leaks In The Heater

* Leaks In The Water Pump

* Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage

B. Coolant Leaks At The Overflow Tube (Go to Step 6)

Probable Cause(s)

* Defective Pressure Cap

* Engine Runs Too Hot

* Expansion Tank Too Small

* Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage Or Crack(s) In Cylinder Head Or Cylinder Block

Internal Leakage (Go to Step 10)

Probable Cause(s)

* Cylinder Head Gasket Leakage

* Crack(s) In Cylinder Head

* Crack(s) In Cylinder Block

1. Leaks in hoses or connections:

Check all hoses and connections for visual signs of leakage. If no leaks are seen, look for damage to hoses or loose clamps.

2. Leaks in the radiator and/or expansion tank:

Put pressure to the radiator and/or expansion tank with the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group and check for leaks.

3. Leaks in the heater:

Put pressure to the cooling system with the 9S8140 Cooling System pressurizing Pump Group and check the heater for leaks.

4. Leaks in the water pump:

Check the water pump for leaks before starting the engine, then start the engine and look for leaks. If there are leaks at the water pump, repair or install a new water pump.

5. Cylinder head gasket leakage:

Look for leaks along the surface of the cylinder head gasket. If you see leaks, install a new cylinder head gasket. Tighten the bolts that hold the cylinder head according to Specifications.

B. Coolant Leaks At The Overflow Tube

Probable Cause(s):

6. Defective pressure cap:

Check the sealing surfaces of the pressure cap and the radiator to be sure the cap is sealing correctly. Check the opening pressure and sealing ability of the pressure cap valve with the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group.

7. Engine runs too hot:

If coolant temperature is too high, pressure will be high enough to move the cap off of the sealing surface in the radiator and cause coolant loss through the overflow tube. See Problem No. 24, Above Normal Coolant Temperature.

8. Expansion tank too small:

The expansion tank must be large enough to hold the expansion of the coolant as it gets warm or has sudden changes in pressure. Make sure the expansion tank is installed correctly, and the size is according to the recommendations of the Truck Manufacturer.

9. Cylinder head gasket leakage, or crack(s) in cylinder head or cylinder block:

Remove the radiator cap and with the engine running look for air bubbles in the coolant. Bubbles in the coolant are a sign of probable leakage at the head gasket. Remove the cylinder head from the engine. Check the cylinder head, cylinder walls and cylinder head gasket surface of the cylinder block for cracks. When installing the cylinder head, use a new cylinder head gasket. Tighten cylinder head bolts according to Specifications.

C. Internal Leakage

Probable Cause(s):

10. Cylinder head gasket leakage:

If the cylinder head gasket leaks between a water passage and an opening into the crankcase, coolant will get into the crankcase.

11. Crack(s) in cylinder head:

Crack(s) in the upper surface of the cylinder head, or an area between a water passage and an opening into the crankcase, can allow coolant to get into the crankcase.

12. Crack(s) in cylinder block:

Crack(s) in the cylinder block between a water passage and the crankcase will let coolant get into the crankcase.

Problem 38: Cold Start Heater

Probable Cause(s):

* Heater Does Not Come On

* Wet Inlet Manifold

1. Heater does not come on:

Check inlet manifold to see if it is warm from the cold start heater. When the ignition switch is turned to the heat position or the control switch is pushed in and the fuel shutoff control is ON, current from cold start heater wire will cause coil in cold start heater to become very hot. If the cold start heater is not hot, make sure there is 12 volts to the cold start heater. If the cold start heater wire has the necessary voltage, the cold start heater is defective.

2. Wet inlet manifold:

If the inside of the inlet manifold is wet, check that there is not a fuel leak from the cold start heater. Check the cold start heater as follows:

a. Disconnect fuel and electrical supply from the cold start heater. Remove the cold start heater and plug the inlet manifold.

b. Connect fuel line to the cold start heater. Do not tighten the fuel line. Operate the priming lever of the fuel lift pump until fuel free of air comes from the connection. Tighten the connection.

c. Start and operate the engine at low speed. Check for leakage from the valve of the cold start heater. Replace the cold start heater if necessary.

Problem 39: Soot In The Inlet Manifold

Probable Cause:

1. On 3054 Engines a small amount of soot is normal.

This is due to the design characteristics of the engine. Valve overlap allows the inlet to open slightly before the exhaust stroke has been completed, which will allow some soot to be pushed into the inlet manifold.

Problem 40: Air In Fuel

Probable Cause:

With air in the fuel system the engine will normally be difficult to start, run rough and release a large amount of white smoke. If air is in the system, it will generally get in on the suction side of the fuel lift pump. Check for leakage at the connections between the fuel tank and the fuel lift pump. If leaks are found, tighten the connections or replace the lines.

NOTE: The fuel priming pump (if equipped) may be used to remove the air from the fuel filter and fill the fuel system with fuel from the fuel tank before the engine is started.

If there are no visual leaks, remove the fuel supply line from the tank and connect it to an outside fuel supply. If this corrects the problem, the suction line (standpipe) inside the fuel tank has a leak.

If this does not correct the problem, check the fuel injection nozzle(s). See, Fuel Injection Nozzle Tests. Refer to Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, SENR1118.

The temperature of an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of a cylinder that has air being delivered to it. Check the exhaust manifold temperatures and compare the results. A lower than normal cylinder temperature indicates that the cylinder may be receiving air from the injector.

Problem 41: Fuel Injection Nozzle Does Not Make Vibration Sound While Injecting

Probable Cause:

* Needle Too Tight, In A Bind, Or Needle Seat Leaks

1. Needle too tight, in a bind, or needle seat leaks:

Clean nozzle. Inspect nozzle cap nut. Replace parts as necessary.

Problem 42: Too Much Fuel Injection Nozzle "Leak-Off"

Probable Cause:

* Fuel Injection Nozzle Needle Loose

* Fuel Injection Nozzle Nut Not Tight

* Foreign Material Between Contact Faces Of Fuel Injection Nozzle And Holder

1. Fuel injection nozzle needle loose:

Replace parts as necessary.

2. Fuel injection nozzle nut not tight:

Tighten fuel injection nozzle nut to the correct torque.

3. Foreign material between contact faces of fuel injection nozzle and holder:

Clean fuel injection nozzle and holder.

Problem 43: Fuel Injection Nozzle "Blueing"

Probable Cause:

* Installation Not Correct, Tightened Too Tight Or Not Cooled Correctly

1. Installation not correct, tightened too tight of not cooled correctly:

Replace parts as necessary. Find cause of failure.

Problem 44: Fuel Injection Nozzle Pressure Too High Or Too Low

Probable Cause:

* Adjustment Screw Moved Or Correct Shims Need To Be Installed

* Needle Stuck (Seized) Or Dirty

* Fuel Injection Nozzle Openings Are Restricted

1. Adjustment screw moved or correct shims need to be installed:

Adjust fuel injection nozzle to the correct pressure.

2. Needle stuck (seized) or dirty:

Clean fuel injection nozzle.

3. Fuel injection nozzle openings are restricted:

Clean fuel injection nozzle.

Problem 45: Fuel Injection Nozzle Pressure Too Low

Probable Cause:

* Fuel Injection Nozzle Spring Broken

1. Fuel injection nozzle spring broken:

Replace parts and adjust pressure.

Problem 46: Fuel Injection Nozzle Drips (Leaks)

Probable Cause:

* Fuel Injection Nozzle Leaks Because Of Carbon Deposit; Needle Stuck

1. Fuel injection nozzle leaks because of carbon deposit; needle stuck:

Clean fuel injection nozzle. If this does not correct problem, replace parts as necessary.

Problem 47: Spray Pattern Has Distortion

Probable Cause:

* Fuel Injection Nozzle Has Dirt, Carbon Deposit

* Fuel Injection Nozzle Is Damaged

1. Fuel injection nozzle has dirt, carbon deposits:

Clean fuel injection nozzle.

2. Fuel injection nozzle is damaged:

Replace the fuel injection.