3054 TRUCK ENGINE Caterpillar


Testing & Adjusting

Usage:

Introduction

NOTE: For Specifications with illustrations, make reference to Specifications For 3054 Truck Engine, SENR1117. If the Specifications in SENR1117 are not the same as in the Systems Operation and the Testing & Adjusting, look at the printing date on the back cover of each book. Use the Specifications given in the book with the latest date.

Fuel System

Cold Start Heater Tests

Basic Checks


Cold Start Heater

A characteristic of the cold start heater is that the heater coil often appears wet. This happens because the diesel fuel does not burn completely, and has the appearance that leakage exists. This condition is normal and should not be taken as an indication the ball valve has fuel leakage. If necessary, do the Leakage Test.

Check the heater operation by checking that the inlet manifold is warm to the touch near the heater after approximately ten seconds of operation.

Check that the fuel tank and fuel lines to the heater unit do not have leakage of fuel.

Check fuel shutoff valve for correct operation. A poor seal can cause air to enter the system which will cause extra cranking of the engine before starting. Be sure all fuel connections are tight and not leaking air.

Be sure the battery condition and state of charge is satisfactory, and all electrical connections are tight. A discharged battery or loose connection can cause reduced voltage and starter motor terminals (slow cranking) or failure of heater unit to be activated.


NOTICE

Do not crank the engine for more than 30 seconds. If the engine fails to start, allow the starter motor to cool for two minutes before attempting to start the engine again.


Leakage Test

Remove the cold start heater from the inlet manifold. Connect an air supply of 140 kPa (20 psi) maximum to the fuel inlet passage.


NOTICE

Do not use air with more pressure than 140 kPa (20 psi) or damage can be caused to the heating element.


Put the cold start heater in a container of clean diesel fuel for ten seconds. No air bubbles should be visible from the cold start heater.

If a leakage is shown, install a new cold start heater. Remove the fuel from the cold start heater after the test.

Electrical Test

1. Connect the clamp lead of a 6V7070 Multimeter around the wire at the cold start heater.

2. Activate the cold start heater switch.

3. The tester must indicate correct electrical continuity and connections to the unit.

4. To check the current draw, put an 8T0900 Clamp-On Ammeter around the supply wire. Operate as normal starting and make note of the current draw indication. The current draw is 16 to 18 amperes at 12 volts.

NOTE: If a cold engine fails to start after the heater coil has operated for 20 seconds and the unit and the area of inlet manifold around the unit are warm, either the starting procedure has not been done correctly or the fault is not the cold start unit.

Finding Top Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston


Locating Top Center Compression Position
(1) Pointer indicator. (2) Dial indicator.

1. Fasten a pointer indicator (1) to the front of the timing cover.

2. Rotate the crankshaft, in the direction of engine rotation, until the pushrod for the inlet valve of the No.4 cylinder begins to tighten.

NOTE: Use care when rotating the crankshaft. The No.1 inlet valve will be held in position on top of the piston. If the crankshaft is not positioned properly, the valve may fall from the cylinder head.

3. Remove the front rocker arm and the No.1 inlet valve spring.

4. Fasten a dial indicator (2) with its plunger in contact with the top of the valve stem. Slowly, rotate the crankshaft, clockwise from the front, until the clockwise movement of the dial indicator stops. Make a temporary mark on the front pulley or damper to align with the pointer indicator (1). Continue to rotate the crankshaft, in the same direction until the dial indicator begins to move in a counterclockwise direction. Make another temporary mark on the damper or pulley to align with the indicator. Mark the center point between the two temporary marks. Remove the two temporary marks.

5. Rotate the crankshaft approximately 45 degrees counterclockwise from the front and then clockwise until the mark on the pulley or damper is aligned with the pointer indicator. The No.1 piston is now at Top Center on the compression stroke.

Check Valve Timing

1. Set the No.1 piston on the TC compression stroke. See, Finding Top Center Compression Position For No.1 Piston.

2. Rotate the crankshaft, clockwise from the front, until the inlet valve of the No.4 cylinder is fully open.

3. Set the valve lash of the No.1 inlet valve to 1.50 mm (.059 in).

4. Rotate the crankshaft, clockwise from the front, until the push rod of the No.1 cylinder inlet valve begins to tighten. In this position, check if the mark on the crankshaft pulley or damper is within ± 2.5 degrees of the pointer indicator.

NOTE: Use the formula as follows to find the measurement which is equal to 2.5 degrees on the pulley or damper.

C=Circumference of pulley or damper

P=2.5 degrees

5. If the timing is more than 2.5 degrees out of position, the timing gears are not in correct alignment.

NOTE: One tooth on the camshaft gear is equivalent to 23.0 mm (.91 in) at the circumference of a pulley of 203.0 mm (7.99 in) diameter. If a large damper is installed, one tooth on the camshaft gear is equivalent to 35.0 mm (1.38 in) at the circumference of a damper of 310.0 mm (12.20 in) diameter, or 37.0 mm (1.46 in) at the circumference of a damper of 327.0 mm (12.87 in) diameter.

6. Rotate the crankshaft, clockwise from the front, until the inlet valve of the No. 4 cylinder is fully open. Adjust the valve lash of the No. 1 cylinder inlet valve to 0.20 mm (.008 in).

Fuel Lift Pump Pressure Test


Fuel Lift Pump Pressure Test
(1) Fuel lift pump.

1. To test output pressure of fuel lift pump (1), put a pressure gauge in the outlet of fuel lift pump (1). Disconnect the fuel injection pump solenoid wire (if equipped) and put the fuel shutoff lever in the no-fuel position.

2. Crank the engine for ten seconds and note the highest indication on the gauge. It should be as follows:

Normal Pressure ... 40 to 70 kPa (6 to 10 psi)

Minimum Pressure ... 30 kPa (4.5 psi)

3. If the pressure is below the minimum, repair or replace the fuel lift pump.

4. Also observe the amount of time for the maximum pressure recorded during cranking to drop by one-half. If the time is less than thirty seconds, repair or replace the pump.

Adjust Fuel Injection Pump Timing

NOTE: The fuel injection pump must be timed if any of the following conditions exist:

* The fuel injection pump is new.
* The fuel injection pump performance is not correct.
* The locking bolt is loosened after the fuel injection pump has been removed from the engine.


(1) Support bracket. (2) Fuel injection pump. (A and B) Fuel outlets (on the front of the fuel injection pump).

1. Hold the fuel injection pump (2) in a vise using the support bracket (1) on the front of the fuel injection pump. The key on the pump shaft must be in a vertical position between fuel outlets (A) and (B).


(3) Locking bolt.

2. Loosen locking bolt (3) from the fuel injection pump.


(4) Timing gauge adapter and indicator (with contact point).

3. Remove plug and washer from the rear of the fuel injection pump and install timing gauge adapter and indicator (with contact point) (4). Set the indicator to read approximately 3.0 mm (.12 in) travel.


(5) Drive adapter.

4. Install drive adapter (5) on drive shaft of the fuel pump. Install drive shaft nut.


(6) Adapter. (7) Timing tool. (8) Locking screw. (9) Pointer. (10) Locking screw.

5. Install the timing tool (7) on drive adapter (5). Install adapter (6) on timing tool (7). Adapter (6) is used to rotate timing tool (7) and the fuel pump drive shaft. To rotate adapter (6) it will be necessary to make a suitable bar which uses the three setscrews in adapter (6).

6. Adjust the fuel injection advance device (KSB). See, Adjust Fuel Injection Advance Device (KSB).

7. Check to see that the pump plunger is at its lowest position and set the dial on the indicator to zero. There will be no tension on the bar used to turn the pump to this position.

8. Rotate the fuel pump drive shaft slowly clockwise, from the drive end, until the pointer on the indicator reads 1.00 mm (.039 in) plunger lift. Hold the shaft in this position and tighten the locking bolt (3).

9. Release locking screw (10) on the timing fixture and move the setting block until the pointer aligns approximately with the center of the top outer slot in the pump flange. Tighten locking screw (10).

10. Release locking screw (8) for pointer (9) and slide the pointer forward until the slot in the pointer covers the pump flange. Tighten locking screw (8).

11. Hold the timing tool (7) against the direction of pump rotation to remove backlash. Place a mark on the pump flange along the slot in pointer (9).

12. Release locking screw (8) for the pointer and slide the pointer backwards to cover half of the flange. Tighten locking screw (8).

NOTE: The fuel injection advance device (KSB), must be energized before the timing is set. See, Adjust Injection Advance Device (KSB).

13. Remove the adapter and timing tool and note the angle indicated on the tool. Increase this angle by 50 degrees.

14. Loosen the locking bolt (3) on the fuel injection pump and allow the pump plunger to return to its lowest position. The dial on the indicator should return to zero.

15. Install timing tool (7) and adapter (6) to the pump drive.

16. Rotate the timing tool against the direction of pump rotation until the slot in the pointer is aligned with the mark on the pump flange. Tighten the locking bolt (3). Be sure the key in the pump shaft is in alignment with the keyway in the gear.

17. Disconnect the injection advance device (KSB).

18. Remove adapter (6) and timing tool (7).

19. Remove adapter (5) from the fuel pump drive shaft.

20. Remove the timing gauge adapter and indicator from the front of the fuel injection pump. Install washer and plug. Tighten plug to a torque of 10 N·m (7 lb ft).

21. Install fuel injection pump on engine.

Remove Air From Fuel System


(1) Bolt. (2) Fuel line fitting.

If air enters the fuel system, it must be removed before the engine can be started. To remove air from the fuel system proceed as follows:

1. Loosen bolt (1) on fuel line fitting (2).


(3) Fuel lift pump.

2. Operate the priming lever on the fuel lift pump (3) until fuel, free of air, comes from the fuel line fitting. Tighten bolt (1).

NOTE: If the drive cam of the fuel lift pump is at the point of maximum cam lift, it will not be possible to operate the priming lever. The crankshaft must be rotated one revolution.


(4) Fuel line nut.

3. Make sure the manual stop control (if equipped) is on the "run" position. If an electrical stop control is used turn the ignition key of the start switch to the "R" position.

4. Loosen fuel line nut (4). Operate the priming lever of the fuel lift pump (3) until fuel, free of air, comes from the fitting. Tighten the fuel line nut to a torque of 22 N·m (16 lb ft).


(5) Fuel line nuts.

5. Loosen fuel line nuts (5) at two of the fuel injection nozzles.

6. Be sure the manual stop control (if equipped) is in the "run" position. Operate the starter until fuel, free of air, comes from the fuel line.

7. Tighten the fuel line nuts to a torque of 22 N·m (16 lb ft).

8. The engine is now ready to start. If the engine starts but runs rough, continue running the engine at low idle until the engine runs smoothly. If the engine will not start, or once started continues to misfire or smoke, further priming may be necessary, or there may be a fuel system air leak.

Fuel Injection Pump Removal And Installation


(1) Locking bolt. (2) Spacer.

The fuel injection pump has a locking bolt (1) and spacer (2). The purpose of locking bolt (1) is to secure the fuel injection pump shaft in a fixed position during fuel injection pump removal.


NOTICE

The fuel injection pump shaft must not be turned without spacer (2) in position under locking bolt (1).


If a new fuel injection pump is to be used, a locking bolt will be installed in the housing and a spacer will fastened (wired) to the throttle lever. The new pump must be adjusted before installation. See, Adjust Fuel Injection Pump Timing.

Engines, with the locking bolt and spacer operate at a static timing very close to Top Center (TC). When the piston is close to TC there is relatively large movement of crankshaft for only a small movement of the piston. Where piston movement is measured, there is not sufficient accuracy for the adjustment of the fuel injection pump.

When the piston is further down the cylinder, there is a relatively small movement of the crankshaft for a large movement of the piston. Therefore greater accuracy is possible. At this position the crankshaft is set at 100 degrees BTC for the fuel injection pump installation.


Outlets A and B (viewed from the front of the fuel injection pump).

The fuel pump timing is set on the No. 2 cylinder. This will put the keyway in the drive shaft centered between outlets A and B.

Fuel Injection Pump Removal


NOTICE

Disconnect the battery before the fuel injection pump is removed from the engine.



Timing Pin Installation.

1. Remove the valve cover and the No.2 fuel injection nozzle and its washer.

2. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, from the front until the push rod for the inlet valve of the No. 2 cylinder starts to loosen.


NOTICE

The only time the crankshaft is rotated is for the installation of the timing pin to determine 100 degrees BTC. To do so otherwise can result in timing pin or piston damage.


3. Position the timing pin at the No. 2 fuel injection nozzle location. Install the fuel injection nozzle clamp on the timing pin and tighten bolts evenly. The timing pin is used to position the piston at 100 degrees BTC.


(1) Locking bolt. (2) Spacer.

4. Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise, from the front until the piston just contacts the timing pin. The piston pin is now set at 100 degrees BTC on the compression stroke of the No.2 cylinder.

5. Loosen locking bolt (1) and remove spacer (2). Tighten locking bolt to a torque of 27 N·m (20 lb ft). Fasten (wire) the spacer to pump body so it is not misplaced.


Fuel Injection Advance Device (KSB).
(3) Clamp.

NOTE: Do not release clamp (3) of the fuel injection advance device (KSB). This will result in the loss of the factory adjustment setting.

6. Remove the fuel injection lines and cables from the fuel injection pump.

7. Remove the support bracket from the fuel injection pump.


(4) Nuts. (5) Fuel injection pump.

8. Loosen nuts (4). Remove the timing gear cover and install gear puller and bolt. Loosen the gear on the fuel injection pump drive shaft.

9. Remove nuts (4) and the fuel injection pump (5).


NOTICE

The crankshaft must not be moved when the fuel injection pump is not on the engine. Movement of the crankshaft may result in damage to the timing case and make it necessary to reset the timing of the engine before the fuel injection pump can be installed.


Fuel Injection Pump Installation


NOTICE

Do not rotate the crankshaft if tooling is installed in the fuel injection nozzle bore location. To do so can result in timing pin or piston damage.



(1) O-ring seal. (2) Locking bolt. (3) Spacer.

1. Install a new gasket to the timing case. Install a new O-ring seal (1) to the fuel pump.

2. Install the drive gear. The key in the driveshaft must be in alignment with the keyway in the drive gear. Install the spring washer and nut to retain the drive gear and tighten the nut but do not torque.

3. Hold the top of the fuel injection pump toward the engine to remove the backlash. Install the three nuts to hold the fuel injection pump and tighten to a torque of 22 N·m (16 lb ft).

4. Install the support bracket on the front of the fuel injection pump. Be sure there is no tension on the fuel injection pump.

5. Loosen locking bolt (2) and install spacer (3). Tighten locking bolt (2) to a torque of 12 N·m (9 lb ft).

6. Remove the timing pin from the No. 2 cylinder. Install a new seat washer and fuel injection nozzle.

7. Tighten the nut for the drive gear to a torque of 80 N·m (59 lb ft).

8. Install fuel lines and cables on the fuel injection pump.

9. Install valve cover, remove air from system and reconnect the battery.

Adjust Fuel Injection Advance Device (KSB)


Fuel Injection Advance Device
(1) Injection advance device. (2) Element (wax filled). (3) Fuel injection pump body. (4) Advance lever. (5) Clamp. (6) Battery.

Some fuel injection pumps have a starting aid which advances the injection timing. This device is operated electrically and is connected by a wire to the advance lever (4) of the fuel injection pump.

When the engine reaches the normal operating temperature a sender unit in the cooling system energizes, to apply 24 volts to the wax filled element (2) which operates to retard the timing.

The advance lever of the fuel injection pump is set in the factory to advance the injection timing when the engine is cold. It is necessary to energize the injection advance device (KSB) if the static timing of the fuel injection pump is to be set.

NOTE: Do not release the clamp (5) from the wire that it is fastened on; this will result in the loss of the factory set adjustment.

1. Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine. Connect a cable from the positive terminal of battery (6) to the injection advance device (1).

2. Connect a negative ground cable from the battery to the fuel injection body (3).

3. Allow a minimum of five minutes for the wax in the wax filled element (2) to expand before the static timing is set.

4. Turn the pump shaft in the direction of rotation to move advance lever (4), fully towards clamp (5), into the fully retarded position. Be sure there is no tension in the wire of the fuel injection advance device (KSB).

NOTE: If the fuel injection pump performance is correct and the static timing adjustment is not necessary, the pump can be removed and installed without energizing the fuel injection advance device (KSB).

Low Idle Speed Adjustment


(1) Adjustment screw.

Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and check low idle. Low idle should be 750 rpm. Adjust the low idle speed using the adjustment screw (1). Loosen the locknut and turn the screw clockwise to increase the speed or counterclockwise to decrease the speed. When the correct speed is reached, tighten the locknut.

High Idle Speed Adjustment


(1) Adjustment screw.


Fuel Injection Pump Data Plate

Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and check maximum no load speed. The maximum no load speed is indicated by the last section of the setting code for the fuel injection pump. The setting code can be found on the data plate on the side of the fuel pump. A typical setting code is 2643J000CK/1/3010. In this example, the maximum no load speed is 3010 rpm. If necessary, this speed can be adjusted by screw (1). Release the locknut and rotate the adjustment screw counterclockwise to increase the speed or clockwise to decrease the speed. When the correct speed is reached tighten the locknut and seal the screw.

Fuel Injection Nozzle Tests

To find out which fuel injection nozzles do not work correctly, do the procedure that follows:


Fuel Lines
(1) Fuel line nut.

1. Start the engine and run it at low idle.

2. Loosen fuel line nut (1) at each fuel injection nozzle and listen for the idle to become rough (not smooth) at each cylinder.

3. If the idle does not decrease or become rough when fuel line nut (1) is loosened, then that fuel injection nozzle has a defect and must be removed for more tests.

Clean Fuel Injection Nozzles

Before a fuel injection nozzle is tested, remove any loose carbon from the tip of the fuel injection nozzle.

1. Fasten the fuel injection nozzle in a holder or a vise with brass jaws. Release the pressure on the fuel injection nozzle holder spring by loosening the adjusting screw. Remove fuel injection nozzle cap nut and fuel injection nozzle with the correct size wrench.


NOTICE

Do not use the brush enough to cause damage to the body of the fuel injection nozzle.


2. Remove the needle from the fuel injection nozzle body. Use the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush and remove any carbon that may be on the fuel injection nozzle body.

3. Clean fuel injection nozzle body seat and the fuel reservoir with an 8S2255 Scraper.


NOTICE

Use extra care not to break a cleaning wire off in a hole because removal is almost impossible.


4. Clean the holes in the fuel injection nozzle tip with a cleaning wire. If the size is not known, carefully try different size wires to find the correct one.

5. The cleaning wire must be installed into the hole and slowly rotated to clean.

NOTE: It is important that extra care be used with the fuel injection nozzle needle to prevent damage because a scratch or burr could cause needle leakage or spray distortion.

Pressure Adjustment

------ WARNING! ------

When testing a fuel injection nozzle, keep the tip of the nozzle pointed away from the operator and into the 8S2270 Fuel Collector. Fuel (spray) from the orifices in the tip of the fuel injection nozzle is under high pressure and can cause injury to the operator. Keep hands away from the fuel injection nozzle.

--------WARNING!------


Fuel Injection Nozzle Pressure Check
(2) Fuel Injection Nozzle. (3) 6V2170 Tube Assembly. (4) 1U8857 Extension. (5) 5P4718 Adapter. (6) 8S2270 Fuel Collector. (7) 5P4150 Nozzle Tester.

1. Connect fuel injection nozzle (2) to 5P4150 Nozzle Tester (7), 6V2170 Tube Assembly (3) and 5P4718 Adapter (5). Put the fuel injection nozzle in position so the fuel spray will be directed into 1U8857 Extension (4) and 8S2270 Fuel Collector (6).


NOTICE

Be sure to use clean SAE J-967 (ISO 4113) oil when testing. This oil is available in 5 gallon, Part No. 6V6068, or 55 gallon, Part No. 6V6067, containers. Dirty test oil will damage components of the fuel injection nozzle.


2. Close the gauge protector valve. Close the on-off valve. Open the pump isolator valve. Flush the fuel injection nozzle by operating the fuel injection nozzle tester for 10 to 15 strokes at a rate of 60 strokes per minute.

3. Open the gauge protector valve. Slowly increase the pressure until the valve in the fuel injection opens. Note the highest pressure indication on the gauge before the pointer flicks (moves real fast). This indication is the pressure at which the needle is lifting from its nozzle seat or its opening pressure.

4. The fuel injection nozzle has an RS identification code. The opening pressure is 25 011 kPa (3630 psi). If the opening pressure is not correct, it must be adjusted.


Fuel Injection Nozzle
(8) Cap nut. (9) Pressure adjusting screw.


Fuel Pressure Adjustment

5. Loosen cap nut (8) and turn pressure adjusting screw (9) clockwise to increase the pressure or counterclockwise to decrease the pressure.

NOTE: Set new fuel injection nozzle opening pressure on fuel injection nozzles with 100 to 150 hours or less or fuel injection nozzles with a new seat, needle or spring.


NOTICE

Before the fuel injection nozzle is removed from the tester, be sure the gauge protector valve is closed to prevent damage to the pressure gauge.


6. Tighten cap nut (8) and check the setting pressure again before the fuel injection nozzle is removed from the nozzle tester.


NOTICE

Before the fuel injection nozzle is removed from the tester, be sure the gauge protector valve is closed to prevent damage to the pressure gauge.


7. Check opening pressure again on the nozzle tester. If the pressure is correct, remove the fuel injection nozzle from the nozzle tester.

Spray Pattern Check

The pressure adjustment must be correct before checking the spray pattern.


Good Fuel Injection Nozzle Spray Pattern

1. Connect the fuel injection nozzle to the 5P4150 Nozzle Tester as shown earlier.

2. Close the gauge protector valve and the on-off valve. Open the pump isolator valve.

3. Be sure the tip of the fuel injection nozzle is in the 1U8857 Extension and the 8S2270 Fuel Collector.

------ WARNING! ------

The spray force of a fuel injection nozzle under pressure will puncture the skin. Keep hands away from the fuel injection nozzle.

--------WARNING!------

4. Quickly pump the nozzle tester and look at the spray pattern when fluid begins to flow through the fuel injection nozzle. The spray must be the same through all four orifices. Any change, either vertically or horizontally, is an indication of a defective fuel injection nozzle.

Fuel Injection Nozzle Installation


Fuel Injection Nozzle Washer And Seal Arrangement
(1) Rigid spacer. (2) Seal. (3) Copper washer.

1. Each time a fuel injection nozzle is removed from the cylinder head, replace copper washer (3) and dust seal (2).

2. Dust seal (2) should be positioned under spacer (1) and against the cylinder head.

Cooling System

This engine has a pressure type cooling system. A pressure type cooling system gives two advantages. The first advantage is that the cooling system can have safe operation at a temperature that is higher than the normal boiling (steam) point of water. The second advantage is that this type system prevents cavitation (the sudden making of low pressure bubbles in liquids by mechanical forces) in the water pump. With this type system, it is more difficult for an air or steam pocket to be made in the cooling system.

The reason an engine gets too hot is generally because regular inspections of the cooling system were not made. Make a visual inspection of the cooling system before tests are made with testing equipment.

Cooling System Visual Inspection

1. Check coolant level in the cooling system.

2. Look for leaks in the system.

3. Look for bent radiator fins. Be sure that air flow through the radiator does not have a restriction.

4. Inspect the drive belt for the fan.

5. Check for damage to the fan blades.

6. Look for air or combustion gas in the cooling system.

7. Inspect the pressure cap and the sealing surface for the cap. The sealing surface must be clean.

8. Look for large amounts of dirt in the radiator core, and on the engine.

9. Loose or missing fan shrouds that cause poor air flow for cooling.

Belt Tension Chart

Cooling System Tests

Water Temperature Regulator Test

1. Remove the water temperature regulator from the engine.

2. Hang the water temperature regulator in a pan of water. Put a thermometer in the water. Put the water temperature regulator completely under water. Do not let the water temperature regulator make contact with the pan.

3. Put heat to the pan of water. Make the water in the pan move around. This keeps all of the water at the same temperature.

4. The water temperature regulator must open as follows:

Opening temperature ... 77 to 85°C (170 to 185°F)

Full open temperature ... 92 to 98°C (198 to 208°F)

5. Replace the water temperature regulator if the opening temperature is not correct.

Engine And Cooling System Heat Problem Checks

To check if there is a good reason for heat problems do the checks that follow:

1. What are the indications for the heat problems.

a. Coolant boils out (comes out because of too much heat) of the cooling system during operations.

b. Coolant boils out on the floor when the engine is stopped.

c. Coolant must be added at the end of each shift but Steps a and b are not present.

2. If indication in Step 1a. is present, do the procedure that follows:

a. Run the engine at medium idle (1200 rpm) for three minutes after high idle operation to cool off the hottest parts of the engine before it is stopped.

b. Install a coolant recovery system, if not already equipped.

c. If indications in Step 1a., 1b., or 1c. are present, the problem can be a damaged radiator cap seal or there can be a leak in the cooling system. Complete the procedure that follows:

d. Do the steps in Cooling System Visual Inspection, Cooling System Tests and Belt Adjustment in Testing & Adjusting of this module.

e. Clean the radiator with hot water (steam clean) at low water pressure and use detergent or air according to the different types of debris that caused the radiator to be dirty (plugged).

f. Check the engine high idle speed adjustment setting (see High Idle Speed Adjustment in Testing & Adjusting).

g. Another condition that can cause heat problems is the timing. Retarded (late) timing causes the engine to send more heat to the cooling system. Advanced (early) timing causes the engine to send less heat to the cooling system.


NOTICE

If advanced timing is too much, it will cause burnt exhaust valves and could cause damage to the exhaust manifold.


Cooling System Conditioner Recommendation

------ WARNING! ------

The conditioner can cause damage to the eyes so take caution. Do not let it contact the skin. If contact is made, immediately wash skin with soap and water. For the eyes, flush the eyes with water for several minutes.

--------WARNING!------

Caterpillar Cooling System Conditioner can be used with or without an ethylene glycol base antifreeze in the coolant. It is important to use the conditioner all through the year to prevent corrosion, cavitation and erosion in the cooling system.

NOTE: Before first addition of conditioner to the coolant, the cooling system must be flushed and cleaned with chemicals if necessary.

Lubrication System

Lubrication System Problems

One of the problems in the list below will be an indication of a problem in the lubrication system for the engine.

1. Too much oil consumption.
2. Low oil pressure.
3. High oil pressure.
4. Pressure relief valve setting.
5. Too much component wear.

Too Much Oil Consumption

Engine Outside Oil Leakage

Check for leakage at the seal at the rear main bearing. Also check for leakage at the seals at each end of the oil pan. Look for leakage at the gasket for the oil pan and at all lubrication system connections.

Combustion Area Oil Leakage

Oil leakage in the combustion area of the cylinders can be the cause of blue smoke. There are three possible ways for oil leakage into the combustion area of the cylinders.

1. Oil leakage between worn valve bores or guides and valve stems.
2. Worn or damaged piston rings.
3. Compression rings not installed correctly.

Too much oil consumption can also be the result of the use of oil with the wrong viscosity. Oil with a thin (low) viscosity can be caused from dirt or fuel that gets in the crankcase, or by the engine that gets too hot.

Low Oil Pressure

If low oil pressure is suspected check for the causes that follow:

1. Low oil level in the crankcase.
2. Restricted oil pump screen.
3. Leakage at the oil line connections.
4. Worn connecting rod or main bearings. Worn gears in the oil pump.
5. Oil pressure relief valve worn or it causes a restriction to the oil flow.

When the engine is running at normal temperature for operation and at high idle, the oil pressure must be a minimum of 280 kPa (40 psi).

A lower pressure indication is normal at low idle speeds. A 6V4161 Hydraulic Test Group can be used for a pressure check of the system.

High Oil Pressure

Oil pressure can be high if the spring for the oil pressure relief valve is not correct. The oil pressure will be high if the oil pressure relief valve cannot move from the closed position.

Too Much Component Wear

When some components of the engine show bearing wear in a short time, the cause can be a restriction in an oil passage. A broken oil passage can also be the cause.

If the oil pressure is correct, but a component is worn because it does not get enough lubrication, look at the passage for oil supply to that component. A restriction in a supply passage will not let enough lubrication get to a component and will cause early wear.

Air Inlet And Exhaust System

Cylinder Compression

An engine that runs rough can have a leak at the valves, or valves that need adjustment. Run the engine at the speed that gives rough running. To find a cylinder that has low compression or does not have good fuel ignition, loosen a pressure fuel line nut at the fuel injection pump or fuel injection nozzle. This will stop the flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel line is found that makes no difference in engine rough running. Be sure to tighten each fuel line nut after the test before the next fuel line is loosened. This test can also be an indication that the fuel injection is wrong, so more checks of the cylinder will be necessary.

An analysis of the engine cylinder condition can be done with controlled air pressure through the cylinder head. Special Instruction GMG00694 explains the procedure.

1. Remove the fuel injection nozzle.

2. Adapt an air hose to 1P5564 Adapter. Install the 1P5564 Adapter in the fuel injector opening in the cylinder head.

------ WARNING! ------

To prevent personal injury, do not turn the engine with the starting motor. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the battery. Turn the flywheel by hand, in direction of normal rotation.

--------WARNING!------

3. Turn the crankshaft by hand until the piston of the cylinder being inspected is at TC on the compression stroke. In this position the valves of this cylinder will be against their seats.

4. Force the air into the cylinder and check for air leakage. An air leak from the exhaust opening is an indication of exhaust valve leakage and an air leak from the air cleaner inlet is an indication of inlet valve leakage. If there is air leakage in the crankcase during this test, the piston or piston rings can be the cause. The maximum leakage allowed is 205 kPa (30 psi). The oil pan can be removed to determine if there is air leakage in the crankcase during the test.

Valve Lash (Clearance) Check

------ WARNING! ------

Always adjust valves with engine stopped to avoid personal injury. Turn the engine by hand and not by use of the starting motor. Disconnect the battery.

--------WARNING!------

Valve lash setting: Engine stopped:

Inlet ... 0.20 mm (0.008 in)

Exhaust ... 0.45 mm (0.018 in)


3054 Cylinder And Valve Location

Valve Lash (Clearance) Adjustment


Valve Lash Adjustment

The valve lash is measured between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm lever. With the engine hot or cold, the correct clearances are 0.20 mm (0.008 in) for the inlet valves and 0.45 mm (0.018 in) for the exhaust valves.

No. 1 Cylinder is at the front of the engine.

To set the valve lash for the respective cylinders perform steps as follows:

No. 1 Cylinder: Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the inlet valve of the No. 4 cylinder has just opened and the No. 4 exhaust valve has not completely closed. Check the clearances of the inlet and exhaust valve for the No. 1 cylinder and adjust them as necessary.

No. 3 Cylinder: Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the inlet valve of the No. 2 cylinder has just opened and the No. 2 exhaust valve has not completely closed. Check the clearances of the inlet and exhaust valve for the No. 3 cylinder and adjust them as necessary.

No. 4 Cylinder: Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the inlet valve of the No. 1 cylinder has just opened and the No. 1 exhaust valve has not completely closed. Check the clearances of the inlet and exhaust valve for the No. 3 cylinder and adjust them as necessary.

No. 2 Cylinder: Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the inlet valve of the No. 3 cylinder has just opened and the No. 3 exhaust valve has not completely closed. Check the clearances of the inlet and exhaust valve for the No. 2 cylinder and adjust them as necessary.

When the adjustment of valve lash needs to be done several times in a short period of time, it can be an indication of wear in a different part of the engine. Find the problem and make necessary repairs to prevent more damage to the engine.

If the valve lash is not correct, it can be the cause of rapid wear of the camshaft and tappets (valve lifters). Not enough valve lash can also be an indication of the seats for the valves being defective. Some reasons for the seats for the valves becoming defective are defective fuel injection nozzles, restrictions to the inlet air or dirty air filters, wrong fuel setting, or using the engine on loads that are too large for the engine.

Too much valve lash, if not correct, can be the cause for broken valve stems or spring retainers. A fast increase in valve lash can be an indication of any of the items that follow:

a. Worn camshaft and valve lifters.
b. Worn rocker arms.
c. Bent push rods.
d. Loose adjustment screw for the valve lash.
e. Broken socket on the upper end of a push rod.

If the camshaft and valve lifters show signs of rapid wear, look for fuel in the lubrication oil or dirty lubrication oil as a possible cause when the necessary repairs are made.

Procedure For Measuring Camshaft Lobes


Camshaft Lobe
(A) Lobe lift. (B) Lobe height. (C) Base circle.

To find lobe lift (A) of the camshaft, use the following procedure:

1. Measure lobe height (B) of one exhaust and one inlet lobe.

2. Measure base circle (C) of one exhaust and one inlet lobe.

3. Subtract base circle (C) dimension (Step 2) from lobe height (B) dimension (Step 1). The difference is actual lobe lift (A).

4. The specified (new) lobe lift (A) is:

Inlet ... 7.62 to 7.69 mm (0.300 to 0.330 in)

Outlet ... 7.71 to 7.79 mm (0.304 to 0.307 in)

5. The maximum permissible out of round wear on journals is 0.05 mm (0.021 in).

Cylinder Head Check


Cylinder Head Check
(A) 8S6691 Cylinder Head Stand Set.

1. Remove the cylinder head from the engine and put it on 8S6691 Cylinder Head Stand Set (A).

2. Clean the cylinder head thoroughly. Make sure the contact surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block are clean, smooth and flat.


End To End Check
(1) Straight edge. (2) Feeler gauge.


Side To Side Check
(1) Straight edge. (2) Feeler gauge.

3. To check the cylinder head for being flat, use a straight edge and feeler gauge.

4. Check the cylinder head from end to end, side to side and diagonal.

5. The cylinder head must not be out of flat more than 0.08 mm (0.003 in) for the total width (A). The maximum permissible out of flat for the total length (B) is 0.15 mm (0.006 in). The maximum permissible out of flat for the total diagonal (C) is 0.15 mm (0.006 in). The out of flat condition must be gradual from end to end and side to side.

Resurfacing The Cylinder Head

If the cylinder head face is out of flat more than the limits shown, or if it is damaged, the head can be resurfaced (material removed from the face). The maximum amount the head can be resurfaced is 0.30 mm (0.012 in) as long as the fuel injector nozzle does not project beyond the face of the cylinder head more than 4.45 mm (0.175 in).

Valve Depth Check

1. Use the 8T0455 Liner Projection Tool Group to check inlet and exhaust valve depth below the cylinder head face.


Liner Projection Tool
(1) 1P2402 Gauge Body. (2) 1P2403 Dial Indicator. (3) 1P5507 Gauge.

2. Use gauge (3) to zero dial indicator (2).


Valve Depth Check
(1) 1P2420 Gauge Body. (2) 1P2403 Dial indicator.

3. Use body (1) and dial indicator (2) assembly to check inlet and exhaust valve depth below the cylinder head face. The indication should be as follows:

Inlet:

Minimum ... 1.27 mm (0.050 in)

Maximum ... 1.60 mm (0.063 in)

Exhaust:

Minimum ... 1.28 mm (0.050 in)

Maximum ... 1.83 mm (0.072 in)

4. The above limits are production limits. If the valve depth below the cylinder head face on a used engine is more than the maximum figures that follow, the valves, exhaust valve seats and possibly the cylinder head will have to be replaced.

Inlet (Wear Limit):

Maximum ... 1.85 mm (0.073 in)

Exhaust (Wear Limit):

Maximum ... 2.08 mm (0.082 in)

Basic Block

Cylinder Liner Projection

Check liner height projection as follows:

1. Use the 8T0455 Liner Projection Tool Group to measure liner (flange) projection.


Liner Projection Tool
(1) 1P2402 Gauge Body. (2) 1P2403 Dial Indicator. (3) 1P5507 Gauge.

2. Use gauge (3) to zero the dial indication (2) as shown.


Liner Projection Check
(1) 1P2402 Gauge Body. (2) 1P2403 Dial Indicator.

3. Use body (1) and dial indicator (2) assembly to measure the cylinder liner (flange) position in four locations around the liner. Do not measure position from the flame ring (if equipped). Position must be 0.10 mm (0.004 in) above to 0.10 mm (0.004 in) below the cylinder block face. The four measurements should not vary more than 0.03 mm (0.001 in). The average position between adjacent cylinders must not vary more than 0.03 mm (0.001 in).

Connecting Rods And Pistons

1. Put a liberal amount of clean engine oil on the crankshaft journals, main bearings and thrust washers. Put the upper half of the main bearings and the crankshaft in position in the cylinder block.

2. Slide the upper thrust washer halves into the recesses provided on either side of the center main bearing housing.

3. Install the lower half of the main bearings into the main bearing caps. Install the main bearing caps to their respective positions. Position the lower thrust washer halves on either side of the center main bearing cap.

4. The main bearing caps are numbered 1 through 5, beginning at the front of the block. Each cap is also marked with a serial number which is also stamped on the cylinder block bottom face. They all should read the same way.

5. Tighten main bearing cap bolts to a torque of 265 N·m (196 lb ft).

Use the 1U6684 Piston Ring Compressor to remove or install piston rings.

6. Put a liberal amount of clean engine oil in the bore of each cylinder and on the pistons before they are installed.

7. Install the piston and connecting rod assemblies using the piston ring compressor as a guide. Be sure the piston and rod number are the same as for the cylinder bore each is installed in. The rod identification number must be opposite the camshaft. The word "Front" or arrow marked on the piston crown must be toward the front of the engine. If the piston crown is not marked, put the offset (narrowest distance between hole and edge of piston) of the piston toward the fuel injection pump side of the block.

The connecting rod bearings must fit tightly in the bore of the rod. If bearing joints or backs are worn (fretted), check for bore size as this is an indication of wear because of looseness. Install the bearing cap with the numbers on the same side of the rod and cap.

8. Install the connecting rod bolts so the flat on the bolt head is against the shoulder of the rod. Install new connecting rod nuts. Tighten connecting rod nuts to a torque of ... 125 N·m (92 lb ft)

9. Check the piston height with the 8T0455 Liner Projection Tool Group.


Liner Projection Tool
(1) 1P2402 Gauge Body. (2) 1P2403 Dial Indicator. (3) 1P5507 Gauge.

10. Use gauge (3) to zero dial indicator (2) as shown.


Piston Height Check
(1) 1P2402 Gauge Body. (2) 1P2403 Dial Indicator.

11. Use body (1) and dial indicator (2) assembly to measure piston height. Check the piston height in four locations around the piston. The piston height must be as shown in Pistons in specifications.

Make reference to Specifications For 3054 Truck Engine, SENR1117.

Crankshaft Rear Seal Installation

The crankshaft rear seal has a dust lip that protrudes from the rear face of the seal which can be damaged by using a regular seal driver. The 9U6205 Rear Seal Installer Group is used to prevent damaging the dust lip.


NOTICE

The seal is easily damaged and extreme care should be taken when handling and installing it. Any visual damage across the lip of the seal will cause leakage of the seal.



Crankshaft Rear Seal
(A) 2.3 mm (0.09 in) position. (B) 4.6 mm (0.18 in) position. (C) 6.9 mm (0.27 in) position.

1. On production engines the seal is at position (A), 2.2 mm (0.09 in) from the face of the rear housing. If the seal leaks oil, use the seal installer to move the seal to position (B), 4.6 mm (0.18 in) from the rear housing face.

2. If the seal is at position (B) and is leaking, use the modified seal driver to move the seal to position (C), 6.9 mm (0.27 in) from the rear housing face.

3. If all three seal positions have been used and the seal is leaking, the sealing area of the crankshaft flange can be reground to a minimum diameter of 133.17 mm (5.243 in). Leave an unmachined diameter a distance of 4.78 mm (0.188 in) from the rear end of the crankshaft.


Crankshaft Rear Seal Surface

Flywheel And Flywheel Housing

Heat the ring gear to install it. Do not heat to more than 250°C (480°F). Install the ring gear so the chamfer on the gear teeth is next to the starting motor pinion when the flywheel is installed.

Flywheel Housing Checks

Face Runout Check


Flywheel Housing Face Runout Tooling Set Up

1. Fasten a dial indicator to the crankshaft flange so the anvil of the indicator will touch the face of the flywheel housing.

2. Force the crankshaft to the rear to remove the main bearing clearance before a measurement is taken at each point.


Flywheel Housing Face Runout Check
(A) Bottom. (B) Right side. (C) Top. (D) Left side.

3. With dial indicator set at 0.0 mm (0.00 in) at location (A), turn the crankshaft and read the indicator at locations (B), (C) and (D).

4. The difference between lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be more than 0.20 mm (0.008 in), which is the maximum permissible face runout of the flywheel housing.

Bore Runout Check


Flywheel Housing Bore Runout Tooling Setup


Flywheel Housing Bore Runout Check
(1) Bottom. (2) Right side. (3) Top. (4) Left side.

1. Fasten the dial indicator to the crankshaft flange so the anvil of the indicator will touch the bore of the flywheel housing at location (1). Set the indicator at 0.0 mm (0.00 in).

2. Force the crankshaft to the rear to remove the main bearing clearance before the measurement is taken at each point.

3. Turn the crankshaft and read the indicator at locations (2), (3) and (4).

4. The difference between lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be more than 0.20 mm (0.008 in), which is the maximum permissible bore runout of the flywheel housing.

Flywheel Checks

Face Runout Check


Flywheel Face Runout Check

1. Install the dial indicator as shown. Force the crankshaft to the rear to remove the main bearing clearance before the measurement is taken at each point.

2. Set the dial indicator at 0.0 mm (0.00 in)

3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90 degrees.

4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be more than 0.20 mm (0.008 in), which is the maximum permissible face runout of the flywheel.

Outside Diameter Check


Flywheel Outside Diameter Runout Check

NOTE: The flywheel housing may have to be removed to make this runout check.

1. Install the dial indicator at the top dead center of the flywheel as shown. Mount the dial indicator to the flywheel housing or the engine block.

2. Set the dial indicator at 0.0 mm (0.00 in).

3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90 degrees.

4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be more than 0.30 mm (0.012 in), which is the maximum permissible outside diameter runout of the flywheel.

Electrical System

Test Tools For Electrical System

Most of the tests of the electrical system can be done on the engine. The wiring insulation must be in good condition, the wire and cable connections must be clean and tight, and the battery must be fully charged. If the on-engine test shows a defect in a component, remove the component for more testing.


4C4911 Battery Load Tester

The 4C4911 Battery Load Tester is a portable unit in a metal case for use under field conditions and high temperatures. It can be used to load test all 6, 8 and 12V batteries. This tester has two heavy-duty load cables that can easily be fastened to the battery terminals. A load adjustment knob on the top permits the current being drawn from the battery to be adjusted to a maximum of 100 amperes. The tester is cooled by an internal fan that is automatically activated when a load is applied.

The tester has a built in LCD digital voltmeter and amperage meter. The digital voltmeter accurately measures the battery voltage at the battery through tracer wires buried inside the load cables. The digital amperage meter accurately displays the current being drawn from the battery under test.

NOTE: Make reference to Operating Manual, SEHS9249 for more complete information for use of the 4C4911 Battery Load Tester.


8T0900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter

The 8T0900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter is a completely portable, self-contained instrument that allows electrical current measurements to be made without breaking the circuit or disturbing the insulation on conductors. A digital display is located on the ammeter for reading current directly in a range from 1 to 1200 amperes. If an optional 6V6014 Cable is connected between this ammeter and one of the digital multimeters, current readings of less than 1 ampere can then be read directly from the display of the multimeter.

A lever is used to open the jaws over the conductor [up to a diameter of 19 mm (.75 in)], and the spring loaded jaws are then closed around the conductor for current measurement. A trigger switch that can be locked in the ON or OFF position is used to turn on the ammeter. When the turn-on trigger is released, the last current reading is held on the display for five seconds. This allows accurate measurements to be taken in limited access areas where the digital display is not visible to the operator. A zero control is provided for DC operation, and power for the ammeter is supplied by batteries located inside the handle.

NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, SEHS8420 for more complete information for use of the 8T0900 Clamp-On Ammeter.


6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter

The 6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter is a completely portable, hand held instrument with a digital display. This multimeter is built with extra protection against damage in field applications, and is equipped with seven functions and 29 ranges. The 6V7070 Multimeter has an instant ohms indicator that permits continuity checks for fast circuit inspection. It also can be used for troubleshooting small value capacitors.

The 6V7800 Regular-Duty Digital Multimeter (a low cost option to the Heavy-Duty Multimeter) is also available; however, the 6V7800 Multimeter does not have the 10A range or the instant ohms feature of the 6V7070 Multimeter.

NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction SEHS7734 for more complete information for use of the 6V7070 and 6V7800 Multimeters.

Battery

------ WARNING! ------

Never disconnect any charging unit circuit or battery circuit cable from battery when the charging unit is operated. A spark can cause an explosion from the flammable vapor mixture of hydrogen and oxygen that is released from the electrolyte through the battery outlets. Injury to personnel can be the result.

--------WARNING!------

The battery circuit is an electrical load on the charging unit. The load is variable because of the condition of the charge in the battery. Damage to the charging unit will result if the connections (either positive or negative) between the battery and charging unit are broken while the charging unit is in operation. This is because the battery load is lost and there is an increase in charging voltage. High voltage will damage, not only the charging unit, but also the regulator and other electrical components.

Use the 4C4911 Battery Load Tester to load test a battery that does not hold a charge when in use. Refer to Operating Manual, SEHS9249 for more detailed instructions on use of the 4C4911 Battery Load Tester. See Special Instruction, SEHS7633 for the correct procedure and specifications to use when testing batteries.

Starter Motors


Typical 12 Volt Starting Circuit
(1) Test point. (2) Test point. (3) Test Point. (4) Test Point. (5) Test Point. (X) Hold-in coil. (W) Pull-in coil.

On Engine Starting Motor Diagnosis Procedure

The following simplified procedure is intended to help the serviceman determine if a starting motor needs to be removed and replaced or repaired. It is not intended to cover all possible problems and conditions, but to serve only as a guide. The most common 12 volt circuit is shown and discussed.

General Information

All starting systems are made up of four elements. They are the ignition switch, start relay, the starting motor solenoid and starting motor. The only exception to this is that on some small engines the start relay may not be required. In this case, the start switch powers the starting motor solenoid directly.

Start switches are relatively low current devices. They are rated to switch approximately 5 to 20 amps. Because the coil of a start relay [between test point (1) and (2)] draws about 1 amp, the start switch can easily turn on the start relay and have long life.

The switch contacts of a typical start relay are rated to switch between 100 and 300 amps. Because the solenoid requires 5 to 50 amps, the start relay can easily switch this load.

The starting motor solenoid has two functions: 1) it engages the pinion with the flywheel, and 2) it is a high current switch rated about 1000 amps that actually turns on the starting motor.

The starting motor solenoid has two coils. Pull-in coil (W) draws about 40 amps and hold-in coil (X) requires about 5 amps. The instant the start relay closes, both coils (W) and (X) receive power. Battery voltage is applied to the high end of both coils, at test point (3) which is the start (S) terminal. The low end of hold-in coil (X) is permanently grounded to the ground post or motor housing of the starting motor. Grounding for the low end, test point (4), of pull-in coil (W) is momentary, and takes place through the DC resistance of the starting motor. As soon as magnetic force builds in both coils, the pinion moves toward the flywheel ring gear.

The pinion will stop short of engagement of the flywheel ring gear. Only then will the solenoid contacts close to power the starting motor. This temporarily removes the ground from pull-in coil (W), and puts battery voltage on both ends of it while the starting motor cranks. During this period, the pull-in coil is out of the circuit. Cranking continues until power to the solenoid is broken by releasing the ignition switch.

The result of these switches and relays is to permit a 5 amp remote mounted switch to turn on a 500 to 1000 amp motor used to crank an engine.

Battery voltage (power) available during cranking varies according to the temperature of the batteries. The following chart is a guide as to what to expect from a normal system.

The next chart shows maximum acceptable voltage loss in the high current battery circuit feeding the starting motor. These values are maximums for engines of approximately 2000 service meter hours and up.

Voltages greater than those shown are most often caused by loose and/or corroded connections or defective switch contacts.

Diagnosis Procedure


NOTICE

Do not operate the starting motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. After 30 seconds, the cranking must be stopped for two minutes to allow the starting motor to cool. This will prevent damage to the starting motor due to excessive heat buildup.


If the starting motor cranks real slow or does not crank at all, do the following procedure:

1. Measure battery voltage at the battery posts with the multimeter while cranking or attempting to crank the engine. Make sure to measure the battery posts. Do not measure the cable post clamps.

2. Is battery voltage equal to or greater than shown in Figure 1?

a. If the battery voltage is OK, go to Step 3.

b. If the battery voltage is too low, test the battery as shown in Special Instruction SEHS7633.

NOTE: A low battery can be caused by battery condition or a shorted starting motor.

3. Measure current draw on the (+) battery cable between the battery and the starting motor solenoid with the clamp-on ammeter. The maximum current draw allowed is shown in specifications under Load Test. Make reference to Specifications For 3054 Truck Engine, SENR1117. The figures shown in specifications are taken at temperature of 27°C (80°F). At temperatures below 27°C (80°F), the voltage will be less and the current draw will be higher. If current draw is too much, the starting motor has a problem and must be removed for repair or replacement.

NOTE: If voltage at the battery post is within approximately 2 volts of the lowest value in the applicable temperature range of Figure 1 and if the large starting motor cables get hot, then the starting motor has a problem and the 8T0900 Ammeter test is not needed.

4. Measure starting motor voltage from test point (4) to (5) with the multimeter while cranking or attempting to crank the engine.

5. Is voltage equal to or greater than shown in Figure 1?

a. If the starting motor voltage is OK, the battery and starting motor cables down to the motor are within specifications. Go to Step 8.

b. If the starting motor voltage is low, the voltage drop between the battery and the starting motor is too great. Go to Step 6.

6. Measure the voltage drops in the cranking circuits with the multimeter. Compare the results with maximum voltage drops allowed in Figure 2.

7. Are all the voltages within specifications?

a. If the voltage drops are OK, go to Step 8, to check the engine.

b. If the voltage drops are too high, repair and/or replace the faulty electrical component.

8. Rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure it is not locked up. Check oil viscosity and any external loads that would affect engine rotation.

9. Is the engine locked up or hard to turn?

a. If it is, repair the engine as required.

b. If the engine is not hard to turn, go to Step 10.

10. Does the starting motor crank?

a. If it does crank, remove the starting motor for repair and/or replacement.

b. If it does not crank, check for blocked engagement of the pinion and flywheel ring gear.

NOTE: Blocked engagement and open solenoid contacts will give the same electrical symptoms.

Charging System

The condition of charge in the battery at each regular inspection will show if the charging system operates correctly. An adjustment is necessary when the battery is constantly in a low condition of charge or a large amount of water is needed (more than one ounce of water per cell per week or per every 100 service hours).

When it is possible, make a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator on the engine, and use wiring and components that are a permanent part of the system. Off-engine (bench) testing will give a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator operation. This testing will give an indication of needed repair. After repairs are made, again make a test to give proof that the units are repaired to their original condition of operation.

Before the start of on-engine testing, the charging system and battery must be checked as shown in the Steps that follow:

1. Battery must be at least 75 percent (1.225 Sp Gr) fully charged and held tightly in place. The battery holder must not put too much stress on the battery.

2. Cables between the battery, starter and engine ground must be the correct size. Wires and cables must be free of corrosion and have cable support clamps to prevent stress on battery connections (terminals).

3. Leads, junctions, switches, and panel instruments that have direct relation to the charging circuit must give correct circuit control.

4. Inspect the drive components for the charging unit to be sure they are free of grease and oil and have the ability to operate the charging unit.

Alternators

On Engine Alternator Output Test

1. Put the multimeter positive (+) lead on the Bat terminal of the alternator. Put the negative (-) lead on the ground terminal or the frame of the alternator. Put the clamp-on ammeter around the positive output wire of the alternator.

2. Turn off all electrical accessories. With the fuel off, crank the engine for 30 seconds. Wait two minutes to let the starting motor cool. If the system appears to be up to specifications, crank the engine again for 30 seconds.

NOTE: Cranking the engine for 30 seconds partially discharges the batteries in order to do a charging test. If the battery is already low in charge, skip this step. Jump-start engine or charge as required.

3. Start the engine and run at full throttle.

4. Immediately check output current. This initial charging current should be equal to or greater than the full output current ... 48A

5. Within approximately 10 minutes at full throttle (possibly longer, depending upon battery size, condition and alternator rating), the alternator output voltage should be 14.0 ± 0.5V to indicate the alternator is performing within specifications. See the Fault Conditions And Possible Causes Chart.

6. The charging current during this period should taper off to less than approximately 10 Amps, depending again upon battery and alternator capacities. See the Fault Conditions And Possible Causes Chart.

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