3306B GENERATOR SET ENGINE ATTACHMENTS Caterpillar


Testing And Adjusting

Usage:

Introduction

NOTE: For Specifications with illustrations, make reference to Specifications for 3306B Generator Set Engine Attachments, SENR1077. If the Specifications in SENR1077 are not the same as in the Systems Operation, Testing & Adjusting, look at the printing date on the front cover of each book. Use the Specifications given in the book with the latest date.

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting can be difficult. The Troubleshooting Index gives a list of possible problems. To make a repair to a problem, make reference to the cause and correction on the pages that follow.

This list of problems, causes, and corrections will only give an indication of where a possible problem can be, and what repairs are needed. Normally, more or other repair work is needed beyond the recommendations in the list.

Remember that a problem is not normally caused only by one part, but by the relation of one part with other parts. This list is only a guide and can not give all possible problems and corrections. The service personnel must find the problem and its source, then make the necessary repairs.

1. Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Does Not Activate Shutoff Solenoid.
2. Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Activates Shutoff Solenoid At Wrong Temperature.
3. Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure Fails To Activate Shutoff Solenoid.
4. Shutoff Solenoid Fails To Stop Engine.
5. Shutoff Solenoid Prevents Engine Start.
6. Mechanical Shutoff Fails To Stop Engine Because Of Low Oil Pressure
7. Mechanical Shutoff Does Not Stop Engine When Coolant Temperature Is Too High.
8. Mechanical Shutoff Will Not Let Engine Start.
9. Electrical Indicators Give Wrong Readings.
10. Automatic Start/Stop Systems.
a: No Supply Of Standby Current-Lockout Light Activated
b: No Supply Of Standby Current-No Lockout Light
c: Standby Current Supply Stops Before Normal Current Returns
d: Operation Of Standby System When Standby Current Is No Longer Needed
11. Starting Motor Does Not Turn.
12. Alternator Gives No Charge.
13. Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular.
14. Alternator Charge Is Too High.
15. Alternator Has Noise.
16. Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine.

Problem 1: Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Does Not Activate Shutoff Solenoid

Problem Cause

1. Wrong Connections

Connect battery to C and shutoff solenoid to NO connections. Check connections to other components or make installation of new wiring.

2. Failure of Shutoff Solenoid

Check the shutoff solenoid.

3. Low Water Level in Cooling System

Fill the cooling system.

4. Wrong Setting of Switch

Make a test of temperature setting and if necessary install new contactor switch with correct setting. See specifications.

Problem 2: Contactor Switch For Water Temperature Activates Shutoff Solenoid At Wrong Temperature

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Setting of Switch

Make a test of temperature setting and if necessary install new contactor switch with correct setting. See specifications.

Problem 3: Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure Fails To Activate Shutoff Solenoid

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Connections

Check connections, wiring and correct where necessary

2. Wrong Setting of Switch

Test switch. If necessary, install new switch.

Problem 4: Shutoff Solenoid Fails To Stop Engine

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Connections

Check connections and wiring.

2. Plunger Shaft Adjustment Wrong

Make adjustment to plunger shaft.

3. Wrong Plunger in Shutoff Solenoid

Install the correct plunger shaft

4. Not Enough Plunger Travel

Make adjustment to plunger shaft or replace solenoid if necessary.

5. Wrong Shutoff Solenoid

Check engine parts manual for correct solenoid for either energized to run or energized to shutoff control logic systems.

Problem 5: Shutoff Solenoid Prevents Engine Start

Problem Cause:

1. Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Operate Correctly

Energized to shutoff or energized to run type: Operate the control for the shutoff solenoid. Listen for a noise. A shutoff solenoid makes noise when it works. If it makes noise but the engine still does not start, remove the shutoff solenoid. Try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the shutoff solenoid is either not installed correctly or it is bad. Make reference to TESTING AND ADJUSTING.

Problem 6: Mechanical Shutoff Fails To Stop Engine Because Of Low Oil Pressure

Problem Cause:

1. Plunger is Held in Normal Run Position or a Spring is Broken

Disassemble and clean parts. Install new parts if needed.

Problem 7: Mechanical Shutoff Does Not Stop Engine When Coolant Temperature Is Too High

Problem Cause:

1. Oil Lines Have a Restriction

Clean oil lines, make replacements as necessary.

2. Control Valve Does Not Work Correctly

Clean control valve, make replacement if necessary.

3. Defect In Oil Pressure Shutoff

Clean oil pressure shutoff. Install new parts if necessary.

Problem 8: Mechanical Shutoff Will Not Let Engine Start

Problem Cause:

1. Control Has Not Been Set for Start

Set the control for start.

2. Spring is Broken

Install new spring.

3. High Water Temperature

Let engine cool.

Problem 9: Electrical Indicators Give Wrong Readings

Problem Cause:

1. Wrong Connections

Check wiring connections to be sure they are correct.

2. Sending Units Have a Failure

Check the sending units and install new ones if necessary.

3. Resistor in 32 Volt Systems Has a Failure

Install a new resistor.

4. Wrong Sending Unit in System

Install correct sending unit.

5. Wrong Indicator

Install correct indicator.

Problem 10a: No Supply Of Standby Current-Lockout Light Activated

Problem Cause

1. Engine Does Crank But Will Not Start-Engine Speed Correct
a. Engine starting problem

No fuel.

Fuel rack not moving.

Governor not operating.

Wrong injection timing.

Very low air temperature.

Restriction in air inlet.

Low compression.

b. Switch problem

Water temperature switch has a failure.

Overspeed switch setting is low or has a failure.

c. Cranking panel problem

Overcranking timer has a failure.

See Troubleshooting section of Engine Control Panel Service Manual.

2. Engine Does Crank But Will Not Start-Cranking Speed Too Slow
a. Starting system problem

Battery does not have enough charge.

Faulty cable connections.

Starting motor has a failure.

b. Engine problem

High friction due to seizure.

c. Switch problem

Oil pressure switch has low setting.

3. Engine Does Not Crank
a. Starting system problem

Open circuit or very high resistance in circuit to the magnetic switch.

Magnetic switch has a failure.

Circuit breaker has a failure.

Problem 10b: No Supply Of Standby Current-No Lockout Light

Problem Cause

1. Engine does not crank
a. Transfer switch problem

See Troubleshooting section of Transfer Switch Service Manual.

b. Cranking panel problem

Automatic engine control switch (ECS) is in the wrong position.

See Troubleshooting section of Engine Control Panel Service Manual.

2. Engine does operate-No voltage from generator
a. Generator problem

See topic "No AC Voltage" in Troubleshooting section of the Generator Service Manual.

Generator main circuit breaker not closed to transfer switch.

3. Engine does operate-Generator does give voltage
a. Transfer switch problem

See Troubleshooting section of Transfer Switch Service Manual.

Problem 10c: Standby Current Supply Stops Before Normal Current Returns

Problem Cause

1. Lockout light activated
a. Engine problem

High water temperature.

Low oil pressure.

Overspeed.

No fuel.

Overload.

Mechanical failure.

See Troubleshooting section of Engine Control Panel Service Manual.

2. No lockout light
a. Generator problem

Malfunction developed during operation-see topic "No AC Voltage" in Troubleshooting section of Generator Service Manual.

Problem 10d: Operation Of Standby System When Standby Current Is No Longer Needed

Problem Cause

1. Standby system still gives power
a. Transfer switch problem

See Troubleshooting section of Transfer Switch Service Manual.

2. Standby system does not give power, but engine keeps operating
a. Cranking panel problem

RR relay has a failure (not always fitted).

TD relay has a failure (not always fitted).

Automatic engine control switch (ECS) is in the MAN./START position.

See Troubleshooting section of Engine Control Panel Service Manual.

b. Problem on engine

Fuel pressure switch has a failure (not always fitted).

Rack stop solenoid has a failure or open in its circuit.

Fuel rack seizure in the open position (overspeed possible).

c. Transfer switch problem

Contacts welded, see Troubleshooting section of Transfer Switch Service Manual.

3. No current to the load, standby system stopped
a. Transfer switch problem

Main contacts welded.

See Troubleshooting section of Transfer Switch Service Manual.

Problem 11: Starting Motor Does Not Turn

Problem Cause:

1. Battery Has Low Output

Check condition of battery. Charge battery or make replacement as necessary.

2. Wires or Switch Has Defect

Make repairs or replacement as necessary.

3. Starting Motor Solenoid Has A Defect

Install a new solenoid.

4. Starting Motor Has A Defect

Make repair or replacement of starting motor.

Problem 12: Alternator Gives No Charge

Problem Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator

Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of parts with defects.

3. Alternator Brushes Have A Defect

Install new brushes.

4. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect

Install a new rotor.

Problem 13: Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular

Problem Cause:

1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator

Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.

2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect

Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of parts with defects.

3. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect

Install a new alternator regulator.

4. Alternator Brushes Have A Defect

Install new brushes.

5. Rectifier Diodes Have A Defect

Make replacement of rectifier diode that has a defect.

6. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect

Install a new rotor.

Problem 14: Alternator Charge Is Too High

Problem Cause:

1. Alternator Or Alternator Regulator Has Loose Connections

Tighten all connections to alternator or alternator regulator.

2. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect

Install a new alternator regulator.

Problem 15: Alternator Has Noise

Problem Cause:

1. Drive Belt For Alternator Is Worn Or Has A Defect

Install a new drive belt for the alternator.

2. Loose Alternator Drive Pulley

Check groove in pulley for key that holds pulley in place. If groove is worn, install a new pulley. Tighten pulley nut according to Specifications.

3. Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For Alternator Are Not In Alignment

Make an adjustment to put drive belt and drive pulley in correct alignment.

4. Worn Alternator Bearings

Install new bearings in the alternator.

5. Rotor Shaft Is Bent

Make a replacement of the rotor shaft.

6. Rectifiers In The Alternator Are Shorted

Make a replacement of the diode assembly.

Problem 16: Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine

Problem Cause:

1. Electrical Connections Are Not Correct

Correct electrical connections and wiring.

2. Adjustment For Plunger Shaft Is Not Correct

Make an adjustment to the plunger shaft.

3. Wrong Plunger In Solenoid

Install the correct plunger in the solenoid.

4. Not Enough Plunger Travel

Make an adjustment to the plunger shaft or make a replacement of the solenoid if necessary.

5. Defect In Solenoid Wiring

Make a replacement of the solenoid.

Shutoff And Alarm System Components

Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure


Test Equipment
(1) 8T0853 Pressure Indicator (0 to 60 psi). (2) 3B7734 Pipe Nipple. (3) 3B6483 Cap. (4) Oil supply line. (5) 3B7263 Pipe Nipple. (6) 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting. (7) 3B9389 Shutoff Cock Fitting. (8) 1F93369 Tees. (9) 5K3772 Hose Assemblies. (10) 44914 Tee.

Test Procedure

1. Remove the cover of the contactor switch and disconnect the wires from the normally closed (B or Blue) terminal.

2. Disconnect the oil supply line from the contactor switch and install the test equipment as shown.

3. Connect the 5K3772 Hose from tee (10) to the contactor switch. Put the end of the other 5K3772 Hose in a pan.

4. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the common terminal and the normally closed terminal. The light of the circuit tester will be activated.

5. Close shutoff fitting (7) and open shutoff fitting (6).

6. Look at the pressure indicator, start the engine and run it at low idle rpm. The light must go out, with an increase in oil pressure, at the specification of the switch.

7. Close shutoff fitting (6) and slowly open shutoff fitting (7). The light must be activated, with a decrease in oil pressure, at the specification of the switch.

8. Stop the engine.

9. Connect the wire (s) to the normally closed terminal.

10. On contactor switches with a button or a control knob either push the button or turn the knob to the OFF position.

11. Close shutoff fitting (7) and open shutoff fitting (6).

12. Start the engine and run it at low idle rpm.

13. Put a jumper wire between the common terminal and the normally closed terminal. This will check the system beyond the contactor switch.

14. Remove the jumper wire.

Adjustment of Micro Switch Type Contactor


Contactor Switch For Oil Pressure (Micro Switch Type)
(13) Set for start button. (14) Adjustment screw. (15) Spring. (16) Locknut. (17) Contact button.

1. Loosen locknut (16) and turn adjustment screw (14) counterclockwise to make a decrease in the tension of spring (15).


Wiring Connections
(D) Normally closed B terminal. (E) Normally open W terminal. (F) Common R terminal.

2. Disconnect the wires from the normally closed terminal of the switch.

3. Start the engine and run it at low idle rpm.

4. Close shutoff fitting (6) and slowly open shutoff fitting (7) until the pressure indicator shows the pressure specification at which the switch must close with a decrease in pressure. Close shutoff fitting (7).

5. Make sure the set for start button (13) is in the RUN position.

6. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the common terminal and the normally closed terminal. The light of the circuit tester must not be activated.

7. Turn screw (14) clockwise until the light of the circuit tester is activated.

8. Tighten the locknut.

9. To check the adjustment, close shutoff fitting (7) and open shutoff fitting (6).

10. Connect the wires to the normally closed terminal.

11. Close shutoff fitting (6) and slowly open shutoff fitting (7) until the engine stops or the alarm operates.

12. The pressure indicator must show the correct pressure specification of the switch as the engine stops or the alarm operates.

Contactor Switch For Water Temperature

Method of Checking


Heat Sink [Dimensions in mm (in)]

1. Make a heat sink as shown. Material can be brass, steel or cast iron. Drill a 23/32 inch hole through the plate and use a tap to make 1/2 inch NPT threads.

2. Put marks on the two contactor wires that connect the contactor to he circuit. Disconnect the two wires.

3. Remove the contactor and install a 3J5389 Plug. Install the contactor switch in the heat sink.

4. Put the heat sink and contactor in water as shown. Use blocks to support the heat sink at surface level.

5. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the wires that connected the contactor to the circuit.


Test Of Contactor Switch
(1) 2F7112 Thermometer. (2) Fabricated heat sink.

6. Put the 2F7112 Thermometer in the water.

7. Use a torch to heat the water to the temperature range at which the contactor must activate. If the circuit tester light does not come on within the temperature range given in the specifications, make a replacement of the contactor.

8. Let the water temperature go down. If the circuit tester light does not go out within the temperature range given in the specifications, make a replacement of the contactor.

Pressure Switch With Time Delay


Oil Pressure Switch With Time Delay Installed (Typical Example)
(1) Junction block. (2) Pressure switch.

1. Disconnect the wires from pressure switch (2). Remove the pressure switch from the junction block (1).

2. Install an elbow, a short nipple, a shutoff valve, a short nipple and tee as shown in place of the pressure switch. Make sure that the valve is closed.

3. Install the pressure switch (2) and a 8T0848 Indicator in the open ends of the tee as shown.

4. Connect the 8T0500 Circuit Tester between the terminals of the pressure switch.


Test Tools Installed (Typical Example)

5. Start the engine. Open the shutoff valve a small amount. Look at the pressure on the 8T0848 Indicator. When the pressure gets to the range given in the specifications, the circuit tester light must go on.

6. Close the shutoff valve. Stop the engine. Open the shutoff valve a small amount. Look at the pressure on the 8T0848 Indicator. When the pressure gets to the range given in the specifications, close the valve. After five minutes open the valve fully. The circuit tester light must stay on a minimum of 30 seconds and a maximum of 15 minutes after the valve is fully opened.

Shutoff Solenoids

1. Make sure the linkage to which the solenoid is connected does not give more than the normal amount of restriction.

2. Connect a voltmeter between the terminals of the solenoid.

3. Activate the solenoid circuit. If the voltage shown on the meter is less than the needed voltage, the circuit has a failure. Check the other components of the circuit. If the voltage is the same or more than the needed voltage, make a replacement of the solenoid.

Magnetic Pickup

1. Check the resistance of the magnetic pickup with the wires disconnected and the engine stopped. The resistance must be according to specifications.

2. Start the engine. Check the voltage output of the magnetic pickup with the engine running at normal speed. The output must be according to specifications.


(1) Clearance. (2) Locknut.

NOTE: If the voltage output is not correct according to specifications, check for the correct clearance (1) between the magnetic pickup and the flywheel gear teeth.

3. If the operation of the magnetic pickup is correct according to the specifications after the tests above, connect the wires and check the operation of the electronic speed switch.

Oil Pressure And Water Temperature Shutoff (Mechanical)

1. Make a restriction to the flow of air through the radiator or to the flow of coolant through the engine.


Mechanical Shutoff Group
(1) Oil pressure sensing valve. (2) Tee. (3) Water temperature sensing valve. (4) Shutdown cylinder.

2. Install a probe or a thermometer as close as possible to the control valve.

3. Run the engine. The engine must stop in less than one minute from the time that the temperature of the coolant gets to the opening temperature for the control valve.

4. If the engine stops at the correct temperature, both the control valve and the oil pressure shutoff are operating correctly. If the engine does not stop at the correct temperature, do the following steps:

5. Loosen one of the connections on the oil supply line for the oil pressure shutoff. If the engine stops running, make a replacement of the control valve. If the engine does no stop running from loosening the nut, stop the engine.

6. Check the lines and fittings and the parts in the shutoff housing for a problem. Make reference to the Systems Operation for information on how the parts work together.

7. Make replacements as necessary and go through Steps 1 through 4 again.

Electrical System

Test Tools For Electrical System

Most of the tests of the electrical system can be done on the engine. The wiring insulation must be in good condition, the wire and cable connections must be clean and tight, and the battery must be fully charged. If the on-engine test shows a defect in a component, remove the component for more testing.

The service manual Testing And Adjusting Electrical Components, REG00636, has complete specifications and procedures for the components of the starting circuit and the charging circuit.


4C4911 Battery Load Tester

The 4C4911 Battery Load Tester is a portable unit in a metal case for use under field conditions and high temperatures. It can be used to load test all 6, 8 and 12V batteries. This tester has two heavy-duty load cables that can easily be fastened to the battery terminals, and a load adjustment knob on the top permits a current range up to a maximum of 1000 amperes. The tester is cooled by an internal fan that is automatically activated when a load is applied.

The tester has a built in LCD digital voltmeter and amperage meter. The digital voltmeter accurately measures the battery voltage at the battery through tracer wires buried inside the load cables. The digital amperage meter accurately displays the current being drawn from the battery under test.

NOTE: Make reference to Operating Manual, SEHS9249 for more complete information for use of the 4C4911 Battery Loader Test.


8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter

The 8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter is a completely portable, self-contained instrument that allows electrical current measurements to be made without breaking the circuit or disturbing the insulation on conductors. A digital display is located on the ammeter for reading current directly in a range from 1 to 1200 amperes. If an optional 6V6014 Cable is connected between this ammeter and one of the digital multimeters, current readings of less than 1 ampere can then be read directly from the display of the multimeter.

A lever is used to open the jaws over the conductor [up to a diameter of 19 mm (.75 in)], and the spring loaded jaws are then closed around the conductor for current measurement. A trigger switch that can be locked in the ON or OFF position is used to turn on the ammeter. When the turn-on trigger is released, the last current reading is held on the display for 5 seconds. This allows accurate measurements to be taken in limited access areas where the digital display is not visible to the operator. A zero control is provided for DC operation, and power for the ammeter is supplied by batteries located inside the handle.

NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, SEHS8420 for more information for use of the 8T900 Clamp-on Ammeter.


6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter

The 6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter is a completely portable, hand held instrument with a digital display. This multimeter is built with extra protection against damage in field applications, and is equipped with seven functions and 29 ranges. The 6V7070 Multimeter has an instant ohms indicator that permits continuity checking for fast circuit inspection. It also can be used for troubleshooting small value capacitors.

The 6V7800 Regular-duty Digital Multimeter (a low cost option to the Heavy-Duty Multimeter) is also available; however, the 6V7800 Multimeter does not have the 10A range or the instant ohms feature of the 6V7070 Multimeter.

NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, SEHS7734 for more complete information for use of the 6V7070 and 6V7800 Multimeters.

Battery

------ WARNING! ------

Never disconnect any charging unit circuit or battery circuit cable from battery when the charging unit is operated. A spark can cause an explosion from the flammable vapor mixture of hydrogen and oxygen that is released from the electrolyte through the battery outlets. Injury to personnel can be the result.

--------WARNING!------

The battery circuit is an electrical load on the charging unit. The load is variable because of the condition of the charge in the battery. Damage to the charging unit will result if the connections (either positive or negative) between the battery and charging unit are broken while the charging unit is in operation. This is because the battery load is lost and there is an increase in charging voltage. High voltage will damage, not only the charging unit, but also the regulator and other electrical components.

Use the 4C4911 Battery Load Tester, the 8T900 Clamp-On Ammeter and the 6V7070 Multimeter to load test a battery that does not hold a charge when in use. See Special Instruction, SEHS8268 for the correct procedure and specifications to use.

Charging System

The condition of charge in the battery at each regular inspection will show if the charging system operates correctly. An adjustment is necessary when the battery is constantly in a low condition of charge or a large amount of water is needed (more than one ounce of water per cell per week or per every 100 service hours).

When it is possible, make a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator on the engine, and use wiring and components that are a permanent part of the system. Off-engine (bench) testing will give a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator operation. This testing will give an indication of needed repair. After repairs are made, again make a test to give proof that the units are repaired to their original condition of operation.

Before the start of on-engine testing, the charging system and battery must be checked as shown in the Steps that follow:

1. Battery must be at least 75 percent (1.225 Sp. Gr.) fully charged and held tightly in place. The battery holder must not put too much stress on the battery.

2. Cables between the battery, starter and engine ground must be the correct size. Wires and cables must be free of corrosion and have cable support clamps to prevent stress on battery connections (terminals).

3. Leads, junctions, switches and panel instruments that have direct relation to the charging circuit must give correct circuit control.

4. Inspect the drive components for the charging unit to be sure they are free of grease and oil and have the ability to operate the charging unit.

When an alternator is charging the battery too much or not enough, an adjustment can be made to the charging rate of the alternator. Make reference to the Specifications section to find all testing specifications for the alternators and regulators.

No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on the alternator regulators. If rate of charge is not correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.

Starting System

Use the multimeter in the DCV range to find starting system components which do not function.

Move the start control switch to activate the starting motor solenoid. Starting motor solenoid operation can be heard as the pinion of the starting motor is engaged with the ring gear on the engine flywheel.

If the solenoid for the starting motor will not operate, it is possible that the current from the battery did not get to the solenoid. Fasten one lead of the multimeter to the connection (terminal) for the battery cable on the solenoid. Put the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading is an indication that there is a broken circuit from the battery. More testing is necessary when there is a voltage reading on the multimeter.

The solenoid operation also closes the electric circuit to the motor. Connect one lead of the multimeter to the solenoid connection (terminal) that is fastened to the motor. Put the other lead to a good ground. Activate the starting motor solenoid and look at the multimeter. A reading of battery voltage shows the problem is in the motor. The motor must be removed for further testing. A zero reading on the multimeter shows that the solenoid contacts do not close. This is an indication of the need for repair to the solenoid or an adjustment to be made to the starting motor pinion clearance.

Make a test with one multimeter lead fastened to the connection (terminal) for the small wire at the solenoid and the other lead to the ground. Look at the multimeter and activate the starting motor solenoid. A voltage reading shows that the problem is in the solenoid. A zero reading is an indication that the problem is in the start switch or the wires for the start switch.

Fasten one multimeter lead to the start switch at the connection (terminal) for the wire from the battery. Fasten the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading indicates a broken circuit from the battery. Make a check of the circuit breaker and wiring. If there is a voltage reading, the problem is in the start switch or in the wires for the start switch.

A starting motor that operates too slow can have an overload because of too much friction in the engine being started. Slow operation of the starting motor can also be caused by a short circuit, loose connections and/or dirt in the motor.

Pinion Clearance Adjustment (3E7864, 8C3596, 6V5207, 6V5537, And 8C3647)

When the solenoid is installed, make an adjustment of the pinion clearance. The adjustment can be made with the starting motor removed.


Connection For Checking Pinion Clearance
(1) Connector from MOTOR terminal on solenoid to motor. (2) SW terminal. (3) Ground terminal.

1. With the solenoid installed on the starting motor, remove connector (1).

2. Connect a battery, of the same voltage as the solenoid, to the SW terminal (2).

3. Connect the other side of the battery to ground terminal (3).

4. Connect for a moment, a wire from the solenoid connection (terminal) marked MOTOR to the ground connection (terminal). The pinion will shift to crank position and will stay there until the battery is disconnected.


Pinion Clearance Adjustment
(4) Shaft nut. (5) Pinion. (6) Pinion clearance.

5. Push the pinion toward the commutator end to remove free movement.

6. Pinion clearance (6) must be 9.1 mm (.34 in).

7. To adjust pinion clearance, remove plug and turn nut (4).

8. After the adjustment is completed install the plug over nut (4) and install connector (1) between the MOTOR terminal on the solenoid and the starting motor.

Air Starting System

Pressure Regulating Valve


Pressure Regulating Valve (Typical Illustration)
(1) Adjustment screw. (2) Regulator inlet. (3) Regulator outlet.

To check and adjust the pressure regulating valve, use the procedure that follows:

1. Drain the line to the pressure regulating valve or drain the air storage tank.

2. Disconnect the regulator from the starter control valve.

3. Connect an 8T0849 Pressure Indicator to regulator outlet (3).

4. Put air pressure in the line or tank.

5. Check the pressure.

6. Adjust the pressure regulating valve as shown in Chart For Air Pressure Setting.

7. Remove the air pressure from the line or tank.

8. Remove the 8T0849 Pressure Indicator and connect the air pressure regulator to the line to the air starting motor.

Each engine application will have to be inspected to get the most acceptable starting results. Some of the factors that affect regulating valve pressure setting are: attachment loads pulled by engine during starting, ambient temperature conditions, oil viscosity, capacity of air reservoir, and condition of engine (new or worn).

The advantage of setting the valve at the higher pressures is increased torque for starting motor and faster rotation of engine. The advantage of setting the valve at the lower pressures is longer time of engine rotation for a given reservoir capacity of supply air.

Lubrication

Always use an air line lubricator with these air starting motors.

For temperatures above 0°C (32°F), use a good quality SAE 10 motor oil.

For temperatures below 0°C (32°F), use diesel fuel.

To maintain the efficiency of the starting motor, flush it at regular intervals. Pour approximately 0.5 liter (1 pt) of diesel fuel into the air inlet of the starting motor and operate the motor. This will remove the dirt, water and oil mixture (gummy coating) from the vanes of the motor.

Air Starting Motor (106-5521)


Components Of The Air Starting Motor (106-5521) (Typical Example)
(1) Motor housing cover. (2) Plug. (3) Plug. (3A) Plug. (6) Bolt (cap screw). (7) Lockwasher. (8) Gasket. (9) Rotor rear bearing. (10) Bearing retainer. (11) Rear end plate. (12) Cylinder. (13) Dowel. (14) Rotor vane. (15) Rotor. (16) Front end plate. (17) Rotor front bearing. (18) Motor housing. (19) Gear case gasket. (20) Rotor pinion. (21) Rotor pinion retainer. (22) Gear case. (23) Bearing ejecting washer. (24) Rear bearing for the drive shaft. (25) Drive gear. (25A) Thrust washer. (26) Key for the drive gear. (27) Front bearing for the drive shaft. (28) Gear case cover. (29) Grease seal for the drive shaft. (30) Cover seal. (31) Piston seal. (32) Bolt. (33) Lockwasher. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft collar. (36) Piston. (36A) Piston ring. (37) Shift ring. (38) Shift ring retainer. (39) Shift ring spacer. (40) Piston return spring. (41) Return spring seat. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (43) Lockwasher. (44) Bushing for the bolts. (45) Drive housing. (46) Drive housing bushing. (47) Oiler felt for the bushing. (48) Oiler plug.

The cylinder (12) must be assembled over the rotor (15) and on the front end plate (16) so the dowel hole (12B) and the inlet passages (12A) for the air are as shown in the rear view illustration of the cylinder and rotor. If the installation is not correct, the starter drive (42) will turn in the wrong direction.


Rear View Of The Cylinder And Rotor For Clockwise Rotation (Typical Example)
(12) Cylinder. (12A) Air inlet passages. (12B) Dowel hole. (15) Rotor.

Tighten the bolts (6) of the rear cover in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts are tight 25 to 35 N·m (20 to 25 lb ft).

Put a thin layer of lubricant on the lip of the seal (29) and on the outside of the collar (35), for installation of drive shaft (34). After installation of the shaft through the cover (28) check the lip of the grease seal (29). It must be turned correctly toward the drive gear (25). If the shaft turned the seal lip in the wrong direction, remove the shaft and install again. Use a tool with a thin point to turn the seal lip in the correct direction.


Air Starting Motor (106-5521) (Typical Example)
(6) Bolt. (12) Cylinder. (15) Rotor. (16) Front end plate. (22) Gear case. (25) Drive gear. (28) Gear case cover. (29) Grease seal. (32) Bolt. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft collar. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (45) Drive housing. (49) Air inlet. (50) Deflector (air outlet). (51) Mounting flange on the drive housing.

Tighten the bolts (32) of the drive housing in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts are tight 11.3 N·m (8 lb ft).

Check the motor for correct operation. Connect an air hose to the motor inlet (49) and make the motor turn slowly. Look at the drive pinion (42) from the front of the drive housing (45). The pinion must turn clockwise.

Connect an air hose to the small hole with threads in the drive housing (45), nearer the gear case (22). When a little air pressure goes to the drive housing, the drive pinion (42) must move forward to the engaged position. Also, the air must get out through the other hole with threads nearer the mounting flange (51).

Troubleshooting Procedure (Overspeed)

Troubleshooting Procedure (Crank Terminate)

Service Procedures

Service Procedure List

Service Procedure A: Overspeed Verify Test

Service Procedure B: Overspeed Calibration

Service Procedure C: Crank Terminate Speed Calibration

Service Procedure D: Oil Step Speed Calibration

Service Procedure E: Magnetic Pickup Check

Service Procedure A


Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3)"LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Overspeed Verify Test

1. Run the engine at rated speed and push verify button (1) in for a moment. This will cause the speed switch to activate and cause engine shutdown.

NOTE: Any time the engine speed is 75 percent or more of the overspeed setting, engine shutdown will occur if the verify button is pushed.

Example: For an engine with a rated speed of 1800 rpm, the overspeed setting is 2124 rpm (see SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART and Note A). The overspeed verify test will cause shutdown of the engine at 75 percent (± 25 rpm) of the overspeed setting of 2124 rpm. In this example, 75 percent of 2124 rpm is approximately 1593 rpm. If the verify button is pushed at an engine speed of approximately 1593 rpm or above, engine shutdown will occur.

The "LED" overspeed light (3) will come on and stay on until the reset button is pushed after an overspeed switch shutdown. Before restarting the engine, push in reset button (2) for a moment. This will reset the speed switch, and the "LED" overspeed light (3) will go off. The emergency stop switch (ES) must now be manually reset before the engine can be started again

NOTE A: The engine overspeed setting rpm is 118 percent of rated engine rpm.

NOTE B: To verify overspeed shutdown system operation, push in the VERIFY button for a moment. The engine must shut down at 75 percent or more of overspeed setting.

NOTE D: Input Voltage: Maximum 40 VDC; Minimum 8 VDC.

Service Procedure B


Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3) "LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Overspeed Calibration

1. Remove lockwire and seal from seal screw plugs (4), (5) and (6). Remove seal screw plug (4) from access hole for overspeed adjustment screw.

2. Use a small screwdriver and lightly turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer twenty turns in direction of "MAX ARROW" (clockwise).

NOTE: The overspeed adjustment screw is made so that it cannot cause damage to the potentiometer, or be removed, if the adjustment screw is turned too many turns in either direction.

3. Run the engine at 75 percent of desired overspeed setting rpm. Make reference to the SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART (in Service Procedure A).

4. With engine at 75 percent of overspeed setting rpm, push VERIFY button (1) and hold in. Turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer in the direction opposite of "MAX ARROW" (counterclockwise) slowly until "LED" overspeed light (3) comes ON. Engine will shut down if speed switch is connected to the fuel shutoff solenoid and/or the air inlet shutoff solenoid.

5. To reset speed switch, push in reset button (2).

6. Slowly turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer approximately one turn clockwise and do Steps 3, 4 and 5 again.

NOTE: More adjustment may be needed to get the correct setting. Turn adjustment potentiometer clockwise to increase speed setting, and counterclockwise to decrease speed setting. Turn adjustment potentiometer very slowly only a small amount at a time until adjustment is correct.

7. When the speed setting is correct, install seal screw plug (4) in overspeed adjustment access hole. Tighten screw to a torque of 0.20 ± 0.03 N·m (2 ± .3 lb in). Install the lockwire and seal (if crank termination and oil step adjustments are complete).

Service Procedure C


Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3) "LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Crank Terminate Speed Calibration

1. Remove lockwire and seal from seal screw plugs (4), (5) and (6). Remove seal screw plug (5) from access hole for crank terminate adjustment screw.

2. Use a small screwdriver and lightly turn overspeed adjustment potentiometer twenty turns in direction of "MAX ARROW" (clockwise).

NOTE: The crank terminate screw is made so that it cannot cause damage to the potentiometer, or be removed, if the adjustment screw is turned too many turns in either direction.

3. Turn the crank terminate adjustment potentiometer twelve turns in a direction opposite of "MAX ARROW" (counterclockwise) for an approximate crank terminate setting.

4. Connect a voltmeter (6V7070 Multimeter or a voltmeter of same accuracy) with the positive lead at ESS-12 and the negative lead at ESS-5. Start the engine and make a note of the speed at which the system voltage is canceled (this is the speed at which the DC starter system disengages). See the SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART (in Service Procedure A) for the correct crank terminate speed.

NOTE: If this setting is not correct, do Steps 5, 6 and 7. If the setting was correct, go to Step 7.

5. Stop the engine and turn the crank terminate adjustment potentiometer one full turn in the correct direction (clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease).

6. With the voltmeter still connected as in Step 4, start the engine and make a note of the speed at which the system voltage is canceled (this is the speed at which the DC starter system disengages). If needed, make more small adjustments until the crank terminate speed is correct.

7. Install seal screw plug (5) in crank terminate adjustment access hole. Tighten to a torque of 0.20 ± 0.03 N·m (2 ± .3 lb in). Install the lockwire and seal (if overspeed and oil step adjustments are complete).

Service Procedure D


Electronic Speed Switch (ESS)
(1) Verify button. (2) Reset button. (3) "LED" overspeed light. (4) Seal screw plug (overspeed). (5) Seal screw plug (crank terminate). (6) Seal screw plug (oil step).

Oil Step Speed Calibration

1. Remove lockwire and seal from seal screw plugs (4), (5) and (6). Remove seal screw plug (6) from access hole for oil step adjustment screw.

2. Use a small screwdriver and lightly turn oil step adjustment potentiometer twenty turns in the direction of "MAX ARROW" (counterclockwise). This will lower the oil step speed setting to its lowest value.

NOTE: The oil step adjustment screw is made so it cannot cause damage to the potentiometer, or be removed, if the adjustment screw is turned too many turns in either direction.

3. Use a 6V7070 Multimeter (or a voltmeter of same accuracy) to check for positive (+) voltage at terminal ESS-13 [negative (-) voltage is at terminal ESS-5].

4. Make reference to SPEED SPECIFICATION CHART (in Service Procedure A). For a particular engine rating, find the specified rpm in column for Oil Step Speed Setting. Run the engine at this specified rpm.

5. With the engine running, look into the oil step adjustment access hole. A red "LED" (light emitting diode) light will be ON. A positive (+) voltage will be seen at terminal ESS-13, 9 seconds after "LED" light comes ON. Now turn the oil step adjustment potentiometer clockwise until the red light in the oil step access hole goes OFF. When the light goes OFF, this indicates that the oil step rpm setting is above the present running rpm of the engine.

Service Procedure E

Magnetic Pickup Check

1. Connect a 6V7070 Multimeter (or a voltmeter of same accuracy) to electronic speed switch common terminal (ESS-3) and signal terminal (ESS-4). Set the meter voltage scale to a scale greater than 1.5 VAC. Start the engine and run at idle rpm or 600 rpm (whichever is greater).

If the measured voltage is 1.5 VAC or more, the operation of the magnetic pickup is correct. If measured voltage is less than 1.5 VAC, go to Step 2.


NOTICE

The magnetic pickup is an important part of the ETR Shutoff Protection System. It is required for crank terminate, overspeed and governing. Be ready to take action when the magnetic pickup is disconnected.


2. Stop the engine. Disconnect the wiring from the magnetic pickup at the plug-in connector and connect the voltmeter to magnetic pickup connector terminals. Start the engine and run at idle rpm or 600 rpm (whichever is greater).

If the measured voltage is 1.5 VAC or more, repair or replace the wiring between the magnetic pickup and the electronic speed switch. If the measured voltage is less than 1.5 VAC, go to Step 3.


Magnetic Pickup (Typical Example)
(1) Clearance dimension. (2) Locknut.

3. Remove the magnetic pickup from the engine flywheel housing and turn the flywheel until a gear tooth is directly in the center of the threaded opening for the magnetic pickup. Install the magnetic pickup again in the threads of the flywheel housing.

4. Turn (by hand) in a clockwise direction until the end of the magnetic pickup just makes contact with the gear tooth. Now turn the magnetic pickup back out 1/2 turn (180 degrees in the counterclockwise direction) to get the correct air gap [clearance dimension (1)]. Now tighten locknut (2) to a torque of 45 ± 7 N·m (33 ± 5 lb ft).

NOTE: Do not let the magnetic pickup turn while locknut (2) is tightened.

Do Step 2 again. If voltage is still less than 1.5 VAC, replace the magnetic pickup.

Time Delay Relay

On/Off Time Delay (Relay)


On/Off Time Delay (Relay)

Performance Check

A. Items Required For Check:
1. Battery or any DC source of 8 to 40 volts.
2. Voltmeter (6V7070 Multimeter or one of same accuracy).
3. Stop watch.
B. Bench Or Installed Test.

Connect or verify source voltage to relay terminals 8 (-) and 4 (+) [if bench testing, also connect positive (+) voltage to relay terminal 6]. All connections must be maintained until tests are complete.

NOTE: There will be voltage when the relay is closed. When relay is open, there will be no voltage [voltage may be positive (+) or negative (-) when relay is tested on engine; when bench testing, voltage will always be positive (+)].

1. Use the voltmeter to verify chart that follows:

2. (a) Apply positive (+) source voltage to terminal 1 and immediately verify the chart that follows (do not leave voltage on terminal 1 for more than 60 seconds):

(b) Remove positive (+) source voltage from terminal 1. Use a stop watch and check the time from the moment of removal to verify chart that follows:

3. (a) Apply positive (+) source voltage to terminal 2.

NOTE: If bench testing, Step 3 can be used as stated. When the unit is installed on the engine, all wires must be disconnected from Terminal 2 to prevent a direct short.

Check the time form the moment voltage is applied to verify chart that follows (do not leave voltage on terminal 2 for more than 60 seconds):

(b) Remove positive (+) source voltage from terminal 2. Check the time from the moment of removal to verify chart that follows:

4. Remove wire from terminal 4 and verify chart that follows:

Instruments And Indicators

Oil Pressure Sending Units


Sending Unit For Oil Pressure
(1) Terminal. (2) Fitting

1. Connect the sending unit to a pressure source that can be measured with accuracy.

2. Connect an ohmmeter between fitting (2) and terminal (1).

3. Take resistance readings at the pressure shown in SENR1077.

4. If a unit does not have the correct resistance readings, make a replacement of the unit.

Water Temperature Sending Unit

1. Connect an ohmmeter between terminal (1) and nut (2). Put bulb (3) in a pan of water. Do not let the bulb have contact with the pan.

2. Put a thermometer in the water to measure the temperature.


Sending Unit For Water Temperature
(1) Terminal. (2) Nut. (3) Bulb.

3. Take resistance readings at the temperatures shown in SENR1077.

4. If a unit does not have the correct resistance readings, make a replacement of the unit.

Electric Indicators

1. Put the indicator in position with the letters horizontal and the face 30 degrees back from vertical.


Wiring Diagram For Test
(1) Terminal (for test voltage). (2) Test resistance.

2. Connect the indicator in series with the power source and the middle test resistance shown in the chart.

3. Let the indicator heat at the middle resistance for five minutes, then check the pointer position for all of the resistance given.

Mechanical Indicators For Temperature


Direct Reading Indicator

To check these indicators, put the bulb of the indicator in a pan of oil. Do not let the bulb touch the pan. Put a thermometer in the oil to measure the temperature. Make a comparison of temperatures on the thermometer with the temperatures on the direct reading indicator. Refer to SENR1077 for the calibration chart.

Mechanical Indicators For Oil Pressure


Direct Reading Indicator

To check these indicators connect the indicator to a pressure source that can be measured with accuracy. Make a comparison of pressure on the indicator of test equipment with the pressures on the direct reading indicator. Refer to SENR1077 for the calibration chart.

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