3306B Industrial Engine Caterpillar

Introduction

Troubleshooting can be difficult. The following pages contain a list of possible problems. In order to make a repair to a problem, refer to the cause and the correction of the problem.

The list on the following pages will provide the following information:

• Known problems

• Probable causes of known problems

• Repairs in order to correct known problems

Normally, additional repair work is needed beyond the recommendation in the list.

Remember that a problem is not normally caused by only one part. The problem's cause can be related to problems with other parts. This list does not include all possible problems and corrections. The service technician must find the problem and the problem's source. After the problem's source is determined, the service technician can make the necessary repairs.

Troubleshooting Problem List

1. The Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When The Start Switch Is On.

2. The Engine Will Not Start.

3. The Engine Is Misfiring Or The Engine Is Running Rough.

4. The Engine Stalls At Low RPM.

5. There Are Sudden Changes In Engine RPM.

6. The Engine Does Not Have Enough Power.

7. The Engine Has Too Much Vibration.

8. The Engine Has A Loud Combustion Noise (Knock).

9. The Engine Has a Valve Train Noise (Clicking).

10. Oil Is In The Cooling System.

11. Mechanical Noise (Knock) Is In The Engine.

12. Fuel Consumption Is Too High.

13. The Engine Has A Loud Noise From The Valves Or The Valve Operating Components.

14. Little Movement Of The Rocker Arm And Too Much Valve Lash Is Present.

15. The Valve Rotocoil Or The Spring Lock Is Free.

16. Oil Is At The Exhaust.

17. Little Valve Lash Or No Valve Lash Is Present.

18. The Engine Has Early Wear.

19. Coolant Is In The Lubrication Oil.

20. Too Much Black Smoke Or Gray Smoke Is Present.

21. Too Much White Smoke Or Blue Smoke Is Present.

22. The Engine Has Low Oil Pressure.

23. The Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil.

24. The Engine Coolant Is Too Hot.

25. The Exhaust Temperature Is Too High.

26. The Starting Motor Does Not Turn.

27. The Alternator Gives No Charge.

28. The Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Irregular.

29. The Alternator Charge Is Too High.

30. The Alternator Has Noise.

31. The Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Stop The Engine.

32. The Contactor Switch For The Water Temperature Does Not Activate The Shutoff Solenoid.

33. The Contactor Switch For The Water Temperature Activates The Shutoff Solenoid At The Wrong Temperature.

34. The Contactor Switch For The Oil Pressure Fails To Activate The Shutoff Solenoid.

35. The Shutoff Solenoid Fails To Stop The Engine.

36. The Shutoff Solenoid Prevents The Engine From Starting.

37. The Clutch Will Not Engage Or The Clutch Heats. The Lever Moves To The Released Position.

38. The Clutch Shaft Has Too Much End Play.

39. The Clutch Bearings Have Short Service Life.

40. The Mechanical Shutoff Fails To Stop The Engine Because Of Low Oil Pressure.

41. The Mechanical Shutoff Does Not Stop The Engine When The Coolant Temperature Is Too High.

42. The Mechanical Shutoff Will Not Allow The Engine To Start.

43. The Electrical Indicators Give Wrong Readings.

44. The Automatic Start/Stop System Lacks The Supply Of Standby Current And The Lockout Light Is Activated.

45. The Automatic Start/Stop System Lacks The Supply Of Standby Current And The Lockout Light Is Not Activated.

46. The Supply Of The Standby Current Of The Automatic Start/Stop System Stops Before The Normal Current Returns.

47. The Standby System Of The Automatic Start/Stop System Is Operating And The Standby Current Is Not Needed.

Troubleshooting Problems

Problem 1

The Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When The Start Switch Is On.

Probable Cause

1. Low Output From The Battery

   Refer to "Problem 27".

2. Defective Wires or Switches

   Refer to "Problem 27".

3. Defective Starting Motor Solenoid

   Refer to "Problem 26".

4. Defective Starting Motor

   Refer to "Problem 26".

5. An Internal Problem Prevents The Turning Of The Engine Crankshaft.

   If the crankshaft cannot be turned after disconnecting the driven equipment, inspect the cylinders for fluid while the crankshaft is being turned. If fluid in the cylinders is not the problem, the engine must be disassembled. After disassembling the engine, inspect the engine for other internal problems. Possible internal problems include the following conditions:

   • Bearing seizure

   • Piston seizure

   • Valve and piston contact

Problem 2

The Engine Will Not Start.

Probable Cause

1. Slow Cranking Speed

   Refer to "Problem 27".

2. No Fuel In The Housing For The Fuel Injection Pumps

   Use the priming pump in order to fill the housing for the fuel injection pumps with fuel. Remove the air with the purge valve.

3. Dirty Fuel Filter

   Install a new fuel filter.

4. Broken Fuel Lines Or Dirty Fuel Lines

   New fuel lines should be cleaned or installed, as required.

5. No Fuel To The Cylinders

   Put fuel in the fuel tank. Prime the fuel system.

6. Low Quality Fuel Or Water In Fuel

   Remove fuel from the fuel tank. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of clean fuel in the fuel tank. Refer to Supplement, SEBD0717, "Diesel Fuels and Your Engine". Also, refer to Special Instruction, SEHS6947 for more information on fuel correction factors and tables.

7. The Fuel Has A "Cloud Point" That Is Higher Than The Atmospheric Temperature. (The "Cloud Point" Is The Temperature That Causes Wax To Form In Fuel.)

   Drain the fuel tank, the lines and the fuel injection pump housing. Change the fuel filter. Fill the tank with fuel that has the correct "cloud point". Use the priming pump in order to remove air from the system.

8. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make an adjustment to the timing.

9. No Installation Of Overfueling Spring

   Install the overfueling spring.

10. Defective Shutoff Solenoid

    Refer to "Problem 36".

Problem 3

The Engine Is Misfiring Or The Engine Is Running Rough.

Probable Cause

1. Air In Fuel System

   Find the air leak in the fuel system and correct the air leak. If there is air in the fuel system, the air generally enters the fuel system on the suction side of the fuel transfer pump. Remove the air from the fuel system. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting, "Fuel System" topic.

2. Low Fuel Pressure

   The fuel pressure at the outlet of the fuel filter housing must be a minimum of 105 kPa (15 psi) at high idle. If fuel pressure is lower than the above pressure, check the following items:

   • Plugged fuel filters

   • Fuel transfer pump

   Ensure that there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bends in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Also look for a defective return fuel pressure regulating valve.

3. Leakage Or Breakage In Fuel Line Between Fuel Injection Pump And Fuel Injection Nozzle

   Install a new fuel line.

4. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Fuel Injection Pump(s)

   Run the engine at an rpm that gives the maximum misfiring or rough running. Then, loosen a fuel line nut on the fuel injection nozzle for each cylinder one at a time. When a fuel line nut is loosened, the misfiring or rough running will increase. If loosening a fuel line nut does not affect the misfiring or rough running, test the fuel injection pump and the fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder. Install new parts, if necessary.

5. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make the adjustment to the timing, if necessary.

6. Wrong Valve Lash

   Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to theTesting And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System" topic.

7. Bent Pushrod Or Broken Pushrod

   Make a replacement of pushrod, if necessary.

8. Worn Valve Seat Or Face Of Valve

   A reconditioning of the cylinder head is necessary.

9. Bent Valve Or Broken Valve

   Make a replacement of valve, if necessary.

Problem 4

The Engine Stalls At Low RPM.

Probable Cause

1. Low Engine Idle RPM

   Make adjustment to the governor. Ensure that the idle rpm setting matches the rpm that is listed in Technical Marketing Information (TMI).

2. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Fuel Injection Pump(s)

   Run the engine at an rpm that gives the maximum misfiring or rough running. Then, loosen a fuel line nut on the fuel injection nozzle for each cylinder one at a time. When a fuel line nut is loosened, the misfiring or rough running will increase. If loosening a fuel line nut does not affect the misfiring or rough running, test the fuel injection pump and the fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder. Install new parts, if necessary.

Problem 5

There Are Sudden Changes In Engine RPM.

Probable Cause

1. Failure Of Governor Or Fuel Injection Pump

   Look for the springs, the linkage or other parts that are damaged or broken. Remove the governor. Check for free travel of the fuel rack. Ensure that the fuel injection pumps are installed correctly. Check for the correct governor spring. Install new parts for those parts that are damaged or defective.

Problem 6

The Engine Does Not Have Enough Power.

Probable Cause

1. Air In Fuel System

   Find the air leak in the fuel system and correct the air leak. If there is air in the fuel system, the air generally enters the fuel system on the suction side of the fuel transfer pump. Remove the air from the fuel system. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting, "Fuel System" topic.

2. Low Fuel Pressure

   The fuel pressure at the outlet of the fuel filter housing must be a minimum of 105 kPa (15 psi) at high idle. If fuel pressure is lower than the above pressure, check the following items:

   • Plugged fuel filters

   • Fuel transfer pump

   Ensure that there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bends in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Also look for a defective return fuel pressure regulating valve.

3. Low Quality Fuel Or Water In Fuel

   Remove fuel from the fuel tank. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of clean fuel in the fuel tank. Refer to Supplement, SEBD0717, "Diesel Fuels and Your Engine". Also, refer to Special Instruction, SEHS6947 for more information on fuel correction factors and tables.

4. The Constant Purge Valve Stays Open Or Closed.

   Install new parts, if necessary.

5. Leaks In Air Inlet System

   Check the pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restrictions in the air cleaner.

6. Governor Linkage

   Make an adjustment in order to obtain the full travel of the linkage. Install new parts for those parts that are damaged or defective.

7. Wrong Valve Lash

   Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to theTesting And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System" topic.

8. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Fuel Injection Pump(s)

   Run the engine at an rpm that gives the maximum misfiring or rough running. Then, loosen a fuel line nut on the fuel injection nozzle for each cylinder one at a time. When a fuel line nut is loosened, the misfiring or rough running will increase. If loosening a fuel line nut does not affect the misfiring or rough running, test the fuel injection pump and the fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder. Install new parts, if necessary.

9. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make an adjustment to the timing. Use the dynamic timing indicator.

10. Low Fuel Setting

    Refer to the Technical Marketing Information (TMI) for more information.

11. Carbon Deposits On Turbocharger Or Other Causes Of Friction

    Inspect the turbocharger. Repair the turbocharger, if necessary. Check for low boost pressure. Low boost pressure is 10 percent below initial boost pressure.

12. Excessive Oil Level In The Oil Pan

    Reduce the oil level to point midway between the "ADD" mark and the "FULL" mark on the engine oil level gauge. Run the engine again. Excessive oil level, particularly at high installation angles, can result in a loss of engine power due to dipping the crankshaft counterweights in the oil.

Problem 7

The Engine Has Too Much Vibration.

Probable Cause

1. Loose Vibration Damper

   Inspect the vibration damper for damage. Tighten the bolts, if necessary. If the vibration damper bolt holes have damage or wear, replace the vibration damper bolt holes with new parts.

2. Defective Vibration Damper

   Inspect the vibration damper for leakage and inspect the vibration damper for a damaged case assembly. Either of the above conditions can cause the weight to come into contact with the housing. If the weight contacts the housing, the operation of the vibration damper is affected. Your Caterpillar dealer can perform a torsional vibration measurement.

3. Driven Equipment Is Not In Alignment Or Driven Equipment Is Not In Balance.

   Check alignment and balance. Correct alignment and balance, if necessary.

4. Engine Supports Are Loose or Defective.

   Tighten all mounting bolts. Install new components, if necessary.

5. The Engine Is Misfiring Or The Engine Is Running Rough.

   Refer to "Problem 3".

Problem 8

The Engine Has A Loud Combustion Noise (Knock).

Probable Cause

1. Low Quality Fuel Or Water In Fuel

   Remove fuel from the fuel tank. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of clean fuel in the fuel tank. Refer to Supplement, SEBD0717, "Diesel Fuels and Your Engine". Also, refer to Special Instruction, SEHS6947 for more information on fuel correction factors and tables.

2. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Fuel Injection Pump(s)

   Run the engine at an rpm that gives the maximum misfiring or rough running. Then, loosen a fuel line nut on the fuel injection nozzle for each cylinder one at a time. When a fuel line nut is loosened, the misfiring or rough running will increase. If loosening a fuel line nut does not affect the misfiring or rough running, test the fuel injection pump and the fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder. Install new parts, if necessary.

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make an adjustment to the timing. Use the dynamic timing indicator.

Problem 9

The Engine Has A Valve Train Noise (Clicking).

Probable Cause

1. Damage To Valve Train Components

   Inspect all of the following valve train components:

   • Valves

   • Springs

   • Camshaft

   • Lifters

   • Rocker arms

   • Pushrods

   • Valve guides

   Check for worn parts or damaged parts. Replace worn parts or damaged parts, as required.

2. Not Enough Lubrication

   Check the lubrication in the valve compartment. There must be a small flow of oil through the rocker arm shaft and rocker arms to the tops of the pushrods and the tops of the valve stems. Oil passages must be clean. The oil passages that send the oil through the cylinder head to the rocker arm shaft are particularly important.

3. Too Much Valve Lash

   Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System".

Problem 10

Oil Is In The Cooling System.

Probable Cause

1. Defect In Core Of Engine Oil Cooler

   Inspect each engine oil cooler. Repair any defective oil cooler or replace any defective oil cooler, as required.

2. Defect In Head Gasket

   Install a new head gasket.

Problem 11

Mechanical Noise (Knock) Is In The Engine.

Probable Cause

1. Failure Of Bearing For Connecting Rod

   Inspect the bearings for the connecting rods and the bearing surfaces (journals) on the crankshaft. Install new parts, as required.

2. Damaged Gears

   Install new parts, as required.

3. Damaged Crankshaft

   Make replacement of the crankshaft.

4. Bent Or Broken Valve

   Make a replacement of the valve, if necessary.

Problem 12

Fuel Consumption Is Too High.

Probable Cause

1. Fuel System Leaks

   Tighten or make replacement of parts at points of leakage.

2. Fuel And Combustion Noise (Knock)

   Small increases in fuel consumption may be the result of fuel injection nozzles with defects, rough running or factors that cause a loss of power. Refer to "Problem 3".

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make an adjustment to the timing.

Problem 13

The Engine Has A Loud Noise (Clicking) From The Valves Or From The Valve Operating Components.

Probable Cause

1. Damage To Valve Spring(s)

   Replace the damaged parts.

2. Damage To Camshaft

   Replace the damaged parts. Clean the engine thoroughly.

3. Damage To Valve Lifter

   Clean the engine thoroughly. Replace the camshaft and the valve lifters. Look for valves that do not move freely. Adjust the valve lash. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting, "Air Inlet and Exhaust System" topic for more information.

4. Damage To Valve(s)

   Replace the damaged parts and make an adjustment, if necessary.

Problem 14

Little Movement Of The Rocker Arm And Too Much Valve Lash Is Present.

Probable Cause

1. Too Much Valve Lash

   Adjust the valve lash. Refer to the Testing and Adjusting, "Air Inlet and Exhaust System" topic for more information.

2. Not Enough Lubrication

   Check the lubrication in the valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm. There must be a small flow of oil at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean. The oil passages that send the oil to the cylinder head are particularly important.

3. Worn Rocker Arm

   If the face of the rocker arm that makes contact with the valve bridge has too much wear, install new parts or rocker arms. Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System".

4. Worn Valve Stem

   If the end of the valve stem has too much wear, install new valves. Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System".

5. Worn Pushrods

   If the pushrods have too much wear, install new pushrods. Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System".

6. Broken Valve Lifters Or Worn Valve Lifters

   Install new valve lifters. Check the camshaft for wear. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stem. Clean the engine thoroughly. Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System".

7. Worn Camshaft

   Check valve lash. Check for wear on camshaft lobes. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stems. Install a new camshaft. Install new valve lifters. Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System".

Problem 15

The Valve Rotocoil Or The Spring Lock Is Free.

Probable Cause

1. Damage To Locks

   Locks with damage can cause the valve to fall into the cylinder. This will cause severe damage.

2. Damage To Valve Spring(s)

   Install the new valve spring(s).

Problem 16

Oil Is At The Exhaust.

Probable Cause

1. Too Much Oil In The Valve Compartment

   Be sure that the plugs are installed in the ends of the rocker arm shaft.

2. Worn Valve Guides

   Reconditioning of the cylinder head is required.

3. Worn Piston Rings

   Inspect piston rings and install new parts, as required.

4. Excessive Idle Time

   Do not idle the engine for long time periods.

5. Improper Ring Seating

   Excessive operation at very light loads with a new engine or after immediately changing the rings and liners can result in the piston rings not seating properly into the liners. This will allow oil to pass. Liner glazing can also result. This may require honing in order to remove and allow proper ring seating, even at high loads.

Problem 17

Little Valve Lash Or No Valve Lash Is Present.

Probable Cause

1. Worn Valve Seat Or Worn Valve Face

   Reconditioning of the cylinder head is required. Make adjustment to valve lash. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Air Inlet And Exhaust System".

Problem 18

The Engine Has Early Wear.

Probable Cause

1. Dirt In Lubrication Oil

   Remove dirty lubrication oil. Install new filter elements. Put clean oil in the engine.

2. Air Inlet Leaks

   Inspect all gaskets and connections. Make repairs if leaks are found.

3. Fuel Leakage Into Lubrication Oil

   This will cause high fuel consumption and low engine oil pressure. This condition may also increase the oil level in the crankcase. Make repairs if leaks are found. Install new parts, as required.

4. Improper Air Filter Maintenance

   Follow the procedure for replacing the air cleaner elements. Refer to the Operation and Maintenance Manual. Excessively dirty filters or filters with holes can allow dirt entry. Dirty filters can also result in the generation of excessive amounts of fuel soot due to high fuel air ratio which can increase engine wear.

Problem 19

Coolant Is In The Lubrication Oil.

Probable Cause

1. Failure Of Any Of The Engine Oil Cooler Cores

   Install a new core for the defective engine oil cooler. Drain the crankcase and refill the crankcase with clean lubricant. Install new oil filters.

2. Failure Of The Cylinder Head Gasket

   Install a new cylinder head gasket. Tighten the bolts that hold the cylinder head. Refer to the Specifications, "Cylinder Head" topic for more information on the proper tightening sequence and torques.

3. Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Head

   Pressurize the cooling system in order to determine whether the cylinder head needs repair. While the cylinder head is removed from the engine, inspect the cylinder head in order to determine the extent of the damage. Repair the cylinder head or replace the cylinder head, as required.

4. Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Block

   Pressurize the cooling system in order to locate the damage. Inspect the cylinder block. Repair the cylinder block or replace the cylinder block, as required.

5. Failure Of Cylinder Liner Seals

   Replace cylinder liner seals.

Problem 20

Too Much Black Smoke Or Gray Smoke Is Present.

Probable Cause

1. Not Enough Air For Combustion

   Check the air cleaner for restrictions. Follow the procedure for replacing the air cleaner elements. Refer to the Operation and Maintenance Manual. Check the inlet manifold pressure. Inspect the turbocharger for correct operation.

2. Defective Fuel Injection Nozzle(s)

   Test all of the nozzles. Install new nozzles if the test shows that a replacement is needed.

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make adjustment to timing. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Fuel System".

Problem 21

Too Much White Smoke Or Blue Smoke Is Present.

Probable Cause

1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine

   Check the engine oil level gauge and oil level. Remove extra oil. Find the source of the extra oil. Put the correct amount of oil in engine.

2. The Engine Is Misfiring Or The Engine Is Running Rough.

   Refer to "Problem 3".

3. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make adjustment to timing. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Fuel System".

4. Worn Valve Guides

   Refer to the Specifications, "Cylinder Head Valves" topic for the maximum permissible wear of the valve guides. Reconditioning of the cylinder head is required.

5. Worn Piston Rings Or Improperly Installed Piston Rings

   Worn piston rings and/or cylinder walls can cause blue smoke and a loss of compression. Make a visual inspection of the cylinder walls and piston rings. Measure the cylinder walls and piston rings, if necessary. Refer to the Specifications, "Piston and Rings" and Specifications, "Cylinder Liner" topics for more information.

6. Failure Of Turbocharger Oil Seal

   Check the air inlet manifold (Plenum) for oil and repair the turbocharger, as required.

7. Improper Ring Seating

   Refer to "Problem 16".

Problem 22

The Engine Has Low Oil Pressure.

Probable Cause

1. Defective Oil Pressure Gauge

   Install new gauge.

2. Dirty Engine Oil Filter Or Engine Oil Cooler

   Check the operation of the bypass valve for the filter. Install new engine oil filter elements, if necessary. Clean the engine oil cooler core or install a new engine oil cooler core. Remove dirty oil from the engine. Put clean oil in the engine.

3. Diesel Fuel In Lubrication Oil

   Find the source of the leakage of the diesel fuel into the lubrication oil. Make repairs, as required. Remove the lubrication oil that has been contaminated with diesel fuel. Install new oil filters. Put clean oil in the engine.

4. Too Much Clearance Between Rocker Arm Shaft And Rocker Arms

   Check lubrication in valve compartments. Install new parts, as required.

5. Defective Oil Pump Suction Pipe

   Replacement of oil pump suction pipe is required.

6. Stuck Open Oil Pressure Relief Valve

   Clean the valve and the housing. Install new parts, as required.

7. Defective Oil Pump

   Repair the oil pump or replace the oil pump.

8. Too Much Clearance Between Camshaft And Camshaft Bearings

   Inspect the camshaft and the camshaft bearings. Replace the camshaft and the camshaft bearings, as required.

9. Too Much Clearance Between Crankshaft And Crankshaft Bearings

   Inspect the crankshaft bearings and make replacement, as required.

10. Too Much Bearing Clearance For Idler Gear

    Inspect the bearings and make replacement, as required.

11. Piston Cooling Jets That Are Not Installed

    Install the piston cooling jets.

Problem 23

The Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil.

Probable Cause

1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine

   Remove the extra oil. Find the source of the extra oil. Put the correct amount of oil in the engine.

2. Oil Leaks

   Find all oil leaks. Make repairs, as required. Check for dirty crankcase breathers.

3. High Oil Temperature

   Check operation of oil cooler and oil temperature regulator. Install new parts, as required. Clean the oil cooler cores.

4. Too Much Oil In The Valve Compartment

   Refer to "Problem 16".

5. Worn Valve Guides

   Refer to "Problem 16".

6. Worn Piston Rings Or Improperly Installed Piston Rings

   Refer to "Problem 21". Refer to the Specifications, "Piston and Rings" and Specifications, "Cylinder Liner" topics for more information.

7. Failure Of Turbocharger Oil Seal

   Check the air inlet manifold for oil and repair the turbocharger, as required.

8. Improper Ring Seating

   Refer to "Problem 16".

Problem 24

The Engine Coolant Is Too Hot.

Probable Cause

1. Restricted Flow Of Air Through the Radiator Or Restricted Flow Of Coolant Through the Radiator

   Remove all of the flow restrictions.

2. Low Coolant Level

   Add coolant to the cooling system. Check for leaks.

3. Defective Pressure Cap

   Check operation of the pressure cap. Install a new pressure cap, as required.

4. Combustion Gases In Coolant

   Find the source of the leakage of combustion gases into the cooling system. Make repairs, as required:

   • Cylinder liner

   • Water cooled valve seat insert

5. Defective Water Temperature Regulators

   Check water temperature regulators for correct operation. Check the water temperature gauge for correct operation. Install new parts, as required.

6. Defective Water Pump

   Make repairs to the water pump, as required.

7. Too Much Load On The System

   Reduce the load on the system.

8. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make adjustment to timing. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Fuel System".

Problem 25

The Exhaust Temperature Is Too High.

Probable Cause

1. Restriction At The Air Inlet System Or The Exhaust System

   Remove the restriction.

2. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing

   Make adjustment to timing. Refer to Testing And Adjusting, "Fuel System".

Problem 26

The Starting Motor Does Not Turn.

Probable Cause

1. Low Output From The Battery

   Check the condition of the battery. Charge or replace the battery, as required.

2. Defective Wires Or Switches

   Repair the wires or the switches or replace the wires or the switches, as required.

3. Defective Starting Motor Solenoid

   Install a new starting motor solenoid.

Problem 27

The Alternator Gives No Charge.

Probable Cause

1. Loose Drive Belt For The Alternator

   Adjust the drive belt in order to obtain the correct tension.

2. Defective Charging, Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections

   Inspect all cables and connections. All connections should be cleaned and tightened. Replace all defective parts.

3. Defective Alternator Brushes

   Install new brushes.

4. Defective Rotor (Field Coil)

   Install a new rotor.

Problem 28

The Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or The Alternator Charge Rate Is Not Regular.

Probable Cause

1. Loose Drive Belt For The Alternator

   Adjust the drive belt in order to obtain the correct tension.

2. Defective Charging, Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections

   Inspect all cables and connections. All connections should be cleaned and tightened. Replace all defective parts.

3. Defective Alternator Regulator

   Install a new alternator regulator.

4. Defective Alternator Brushes

   Install new brushes.

5. Defective Rectifier Diodes

   Replace the defective rectifier diode.

6. Defective Rotor (Field Coil)

   Install a new rotor.

Problem 29

The Alternator Charge Is Too High.

Probable Cause

1. Loose Connections On The Alternator Or The Alternator Regulator

   Tighten all connections to the alternator or the alternator regulator.

2. Defective Alternator Regulator

   Install a new alternator regulator.

Problem 30

The Alternator Has Noise.

Probable Cause

1. Drive Belt For The Alternator That Is Worn Or Defective

   Install a new drive belt for the alternator.

2. Loose Alternator Drive Pulley

   Check the groove in the pulley for a key that holds the pulley in place. If the groove is worn, install a new pulley. Refer to the Specifications, "Alternator and Regulator" topic for the proper torques.

3. Misaligned Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For The Alternator

   Align the drive belt and the drive pulley.

4. Worn Alternator Bearings

   Install new bearings in the alternator.

5. Bent Rotor Shaft

   Replace the rotor shaft.

6. Shorted Rectifiers In The Alternator

   Replace the diode assembly.

Problem 31

The Shutoff Solenoid Does Not Stop The Engine.

Probable Cause

1. Incorrect Electrical Connections

   Correct the electrical connections and wiring.

2. Incorrect Adjustment For The Plunger Shaft

   Adjust the plunger shaft.

3. Wrong Plunger In The Solenoid

   Install the correct plunger in the solenoid.

4. Not Enough Plunger Travel

   Adjust the plunger shaft or replace the solenoid, if necessary.

5. Defective Solenoid Wiring

   Replace the solenoid.

Problem 32

The Contactor Switch For The Water Temperature Does Not Activate The Shutoff Solenoid.

Probable Cause

1. Wrong Connections

   Connect the battery to "C" and connect the shutoff solenoid to "NO connections". Check the connections to the other components or install new wiring.

2. Failure of Shutoff Solenoid

   Check the shutoff solenoid.

3. Low Water Level in Cooling System

   Fill the cooling system.

4. Wrong Setting of Switch

   Test the temperature setting. If necessary, install a new contactor switch with the correct setting. Refer to specifications.

Problem 33

The Contactor Switch For The Water Temperature Activates The Shutoff Solenoid At The Wrong Temperature.

Probable Cause

1. Wrong Setting of Switch

   Test the temperature setting. If necessary, install a new contactor switch with the correct setting. Refer to specifications.

Problem 34

The Contactor Switch For The Oil Pressure Fails To Activate The Shutoff Solenoid.

Probable Cause

1. Wrong Connections

   Check the connections and the wiring. If necessary, correct the connections or the wiring.

2. Wrong Setting of Switch

   Test the switch. If necessary, install a new switch.

Problem 35

The Shutoff Solenoid Fails To Stop The Engine.

Probable Cause

1. Wrong Connections

   Check the connections and the wiring.

2. Wrong Adjustment of Plunger Shaft

   Adjust the plunger shaft.

3. Wrong Plunger in Shutoff Solenoid

   Install the correct plunger shaft.

4. Not Enough Plunger Travel

   If necessary, adjust the plunger shaft or replace the solenoid.

5. Wrong Shutoff Solenoid

   Refer to the Parts Manual for the correct solenoid. The solenoid is for either of the following systems:

   • Energized To Run Control Logic System

   • Energized To Shutoff Control Logic System

Problem 36

The Shutoff Solenoid Prevents The Engine From Starting.

Probable Cause

1. Defective Shutoff Solenoid

   Operate the control for the shutoff solenoid. Listen for a noise. An operating shutoff solenoid can be heard. If the solenoid can not be heard and the engine does not start, remove the shutoff solenoid. Start the engine. If the engine starts, the shutoff solenoid is installed incorrectly or the shutoff solenoid is defective. Refer to Testing And Adjusting.

Problem 37

The Clutch Will Not Engage Or The Clutch Heats. The Lever Moves To The Released Position.

Probable Cause

1. Wrong Adjustment

   Adjust the lever pull on the clutch engagement.

2. Alignment Of The Mounting Face And Bores Of The Flywheel And Flywheel Housing

   Check the alignment and adjust the alignment.

3. Overload On Clutch

   Reduce the load or reduce the engine rpm before engaging the clutch.

Problem 38

The Clutch Shaft Has Too Much End Play.

Probable Cause

1. Worn Bearing Or Wrong Adjustment

   Replace the shaft bearing and/or adjust the shaft bearing.

Problem 39

The Clutch Bearing Has Short Service Life.

Probable Cause

1. Too Much Bearing Clearance

   Replace the shaft bearing and/or adjust the shaft bearing.

2. Too High Of A Side Load

   Reduce the side load.

Problem 40

The Mechanical Shutoff Fails To Stop The Engine Because Of Low Oil Pressure.

Probable Cause

1. Plunger In Normal Run Position Or Broken Spring

   Disassemble the parts and clean the parts. If necessary, install new parts.

Problem 41

The Mechanical Shutoff Does Not Stop The Engine When The Coolant Temperature Is Too High.

Probable Cause

1. Restriction In Oil Lines

   Clean the oil lines. If necessary, make replacements.

2. Defect In Control Valve Operation

   Clean the control valve. If necessary, make a replacement.

3. Defect In Oil Pressure Shutoff

   Clean the oil pressure shutoff. If necessary, install new parts.

Problem 42

The Mechanical Shutoff Will Not Allow The Engine To Start.

Probable Cause

1. Wrong Setting For Control

   Set the control for starting.

2. Broken Spring

   Install a new spring.

3. High Water Temperature

   Allow the engine to cool.

Problem 43

The Electrical Indicators Give Wrong Readings.

Probable Cause

1. Wrong Connections

   Check for correct wiring connections.

2. Failed Sending Units

   Check the sending units. If necessary, install new sending units.

3. Failed Resistor in 32 Volt Systems

   Install a new resistor.

4. Wrong Sending Unit in System

   Install a correct sending unit.

5. Wrong Indicator

   Install a correct indicator.

Problem 44

The Automatic Start/Stop System Lacks The Supply Of Standby Current And The Lockout Light Is Activated.

Probable Cause

1. The Engine Cranks But The Engine Will Not Start. (The Engine RPM Is Correct.)

   1. Failure In Starting The Engine

      The fuel tank is empty.

      The fuel rack is not moving.

      The governor is not operating.

      The injection timing is wrong.

      The air temperature is very low.

      The air inlet is restricted.

      The compression is low.

   2. Failed switch

      The water temperature switch has a failure.

      The setting for the overspeed switch is low or the overspeed switch has a failure.

   3. Failed cranking panel

      The overcranking timer has a failure.

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Engine Control Panel" for more information.

2. The Engine Cranks But The Engine Will Not Start. (The Cranking Speed Is Too Slow.)

   1. Failed starting system

      The battery does not have enough charge.

      The cable connections are faulty.

      The starting motor has a failure.

   2. Engine Problem

      The engine seized due to high friction.

   3. Improper switch setting

      The oil pressure switch has a low setting.

3. The Engine Fails To Crank.

   1. Failed starting system

      The circuit to the magnetic switch has an open circuit or a very high resistance.

      The magnetic switch has a failure.

      The circuit breaker has a failure.

Problem 45

The Automatic Start/Stop System Lacks The Supply Of Standby Current And The Lockout Light Is Not Activated.

Probable Cause

1. The Engine Fails To Crank.

   1. Failed transfer switch

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Transfer Switch" Troubleshooting section for more information.

   2. Failed cranking panel

      The automatic engine control switch (ECS) is in the wrong position.

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Engine Control Panel" Troubleshooting section for more information.

2. The Engine Operates With A Lack Of Voltage From The Generator.

   1. No Voltage From Generator

      Refer to the Generator Service Manual, "No AC Voltage" topic in the Troubleshooting section.

      The main circuit breaker of the generator is not closed to the transfer switch.

3. The Engine Operates And The Generator Supplies Voltage.

   1. Failed transfer switch

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Transfer Switch" for more information.

Problem 46

The Supply Of The Standby Current Of The Automatic Start/Stop System Stops Before The Normal Current Returns.

Probable Cause

1. Activated Lockout Light

   1. Engine Problem

      The water temperature is high.

      The oil pressure is low.

      The engine is overspeed.

      The fuel tank is empty.

      The engine is overloaded.

      The engine has a mechanical failure.

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Engine Control Panel" Troubleshooting section for more information.

2. Failed Lockout Light

   1. Failed Generator

      A malfunction developed during the operation. Refer to the Generator Service Manual"No AC Voltage" topic in the Troubleshooting section.

Problem 47

The Standby System Of The Automatic Start/Stop System Is Operating And The Standby Current Is Not Needed.

Probable Cause

1. Standby System Continues To Operate.

   1. Failed transfer switch

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Transfer Switch" Troubleshooting section for more information.

2. Standby System Does Not Supply Power But The Engine Operates.

   1. Failed cranking panel

      RR relay has a failure. (The RR relay is not always a fitted assembly.)

      TD relay has a failure. (The TD relay is not always a fitted assembly.)

      The automatic engine control switch (ECS) is in the MANUAL START position.

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Engine Control Panel" Troubleshooting section for more information.

   2. Engine Problem

      The fuel pressure switch has a failure. (The fuel pressure switch is not always a fitted assembly.)

      The rack stop solenoid failed or the rack stop solenoid has an open circuit.

      The fuel rack seized in the open position from a possible overspeed.

   3. Failed transfer switch

      The contacts are welded.

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Transfer Switch" Troubleshooting section for more information.

3. Stopped Standby System Because of The Lack Of Current To The Load

   1. Failed transfer switch

      The main contacts are welded.

      Refer to the OEM Service Manual"Transfer Switch" Troubleshooting section for more information.

Troubleshooting Procedure (Overspeed)

Illustration 1	g00509274

Troubleshooting Procedure (Crank Terminate)

Illustration 2	g00509277